Stoney Middleton

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References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Some aid.

At the time one of the hardest routes in the country. Tom led the line with only 3 pieces of protection, a worrying thought for the modern climbers! [3]

References

[1] http://smhccg.org/rock-climbing/mick-ward/

[2] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[3] On The Edge, Issue 112 page 12

Some sources report this as the first free ascent but it is unclear whether Rouse managed to reduce the amount of aid used.

However, in Rocksport Magazine April/May 1971, it was stated that Rouse and Alan (Richard) McHardy had both repeated Wee Doris, but had been unable to reduce the amount of aid used by Proctor. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

[2] Mountain issue 15, page 10

References

[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

Tom originally started up an adjacent route but later added the current and more direct start.

With some aid.

Aid considerably reduced by 1968, probably by Tom Proctor. [1]

References

[1] Peak Limestone North, First Ascents Supplement /file/bc3fd0e4-a3ee-a736-1cbf-d68af9f0910e/peak_lime_north_first_ascents.pdf

First re-ascent after a big flake came off.

Jerry recounts that a will to impress a passing Dougie Hall and Kim Carrigan provided the extra motivation he needed to climb the route.

Jerry had previously climbed the first pitch in 1981. He then completed the second pitch in 1982.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/rockarchivist/photos/a.116578176465735/116578389799047

References

[1] Mountain Issue 103, page 18

Simon Lee:

I got shut down on the crux and in frustration made the mistake of saying I don’t care if someone else does it and left. As I understand Dougie turned up later and my comment was relayed to him (by Al Austen IIRC) and Dougie did it. I was told he went up the crack next to it to look across to inspect it but otherwise flashed it. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.msg682217.html#msg682217

References

[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 13 /library/11314/mountain-129

References

[1] https://youtu.be/RnGf69g6Igc?t=1057