High Tor

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With some aid.

Free climbed the old Bastion Wall. A really first-class route, even if I say so myself! So it's the least I could do to name it after poor Rob.

...

I flung myself at the slimy, grass-filled crack, not daring to stop, for fear of falling off. Then after a very committing move over a bulge I was confronted by a steep fragile wall with uselessly fragile, shallow, greay finger pockets. It was getting dark fast and my fingers squirmed about in the grease, no light left except for three blood red tongues of sky tearing the jet black clouds on the horizon, absolutely no time left for emssing about, I frantically got a peg out to put in for pro. Unfortunately, as I whipped out my hammer I smashed myself in the mouth with it, bursting my lip and breaking off a corner and a flake of my front tooth.

Now I was really freaked out, the sun had long since gone below the ridge. I sped up the crisp wall like there was no tomorrow and gained the break below the enormous summit bulge. I reached up over this, and to my surprise my hand came onto a line of fine holds leading away to the left. I boated across in exuberance and exploded up to the summit tree, to the sound of loose rock crashing down the cliff from the east last ten feet. Poor old Jerry [Frost] prussicked up in the dark. Mission accomplished. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Cleaned on abseil after an abortive attempt ended at a loose bulge.

References

[1] Mountain 47 (1975), page 14 /library/11078/mountain-47

Peak limestone also drew John in – albeit nowhere near to the same degree as his beloved gritstone and he didn’t have it all his way either. Apocalypse (originally E6 but now E4), a case in point, wasn’t John’s finest hour. John, having seconded Steve up the first pitch, failed to lead the top pitch. Later that month (April 1976), the pair dispatched Castellan (E5 6b, 6b) on High Tor to give one of the hardest routes on Peak limestone. Again, Steve Bancroft got the first and arguable the hardest pitch – something which rankled Allen considerably. That pitch consumed so much time and effort that they had to return a second day to allow Allen to lead the top pitch. That barely consoled the miserable Allen however.

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/news/john-allen-god-of-grit-the-legend/

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

Brilliant! A modern debauchery connecting a subtle line of ramps from the base of The Pillar to the stance on Original Route. Whilst no single move compares with Bastille's crux, the climbing is bold and sustained without the comfort of pegs or bolts to go for. Cool nerve and careful wire arrangement important. the crux pitch was led on three 9mm ropes to avoid dislodging important runners. [1]

References

[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg695284.html#msg695284

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=pfbid034YouszyzfEXvaVYJtoY4STGCWdY1wrJS7ukDXGC89TWwFBhZDuFw1nZ1F9wMoWNhl&id=890815603