Nesscliffe

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The first 15 metres of the route was led using the aid of large wooden wedges and pitons, with the top third of the route being climbed mostly free. A grade of HVS and A2 was suggested.

With a rest in the top crack. Drummond named the route.

References

[1] New Climbs (1968), page 122 /library/7218/new-climbs. Listed under 'V. Miscellaneous'!

Several long pegs were made in the metalwork department of a Whitchurch school, these were placed prior to the lead.

Footage of a later ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvnY_x5wYFo.

All I know is that these are lines to turn heads and skewer souls. [1]

References

[1] /file/0a8fb92b-cd37-7257-6644-4482bfbcca29/Top_Ten_New_Routes_2023_selection.pdf

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/07/nick_dixon_new_nesscliffe_e9-48533

[2] https://youtu.be/Eu7uf6Q-R-Q?t=213

Basically one of the two huge aretes in the quarry hadn't been climbed from the floor because there used to be really dense tree cover meaning the bottom stayed grotty and damp looking, and the rock in the bottom half appears very poor and soft. It had been looked at but was always too damp. Nick Dixon climbed the top half of the arete (Rite Time) from a hanging stance at a small foot ledge where you can get a really good rest that's not quite hands off but is a total recovery. The top arete is brilliant and on great rock and has a really cool technical crux at the top protected by pegs. You get full exposure up there too! Nick thought when he did Rite Time you would have to do the bottom half with ice axes to get to the top half which would have been a funny route but he just decided on the top bit.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/06/nesscliffe_mega_arete_falls_to_ed_booth-67224

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0PlKeLaMjc

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM70wIKPQps

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CcH0-MrDiO5/

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3Kh8r3mx6c