Climbs

One of the hardest slabs in the world. Originally given 9a but upgraded to 9a+ by the second ascenionist after some holds had changed.

Don't expect any favours on this baby! The sharp arete slopes in more dimensions than physicists have ever dreamed of. With gear in the very low slot , power up the arete with great determination, skill, power, technique and all those other things you have not got. [1]

References

[1] Burbage, Millstone and Beyond by The BMC 2005

Initially climbed with 3 bolts and 3 pegs in 40m!

One of the first 8Bs in Fontainebleau alongside Enigma. In 2001 a disgruntled local destroyed the problem by knocking off many of the holds with a hammer. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/karma_chipped_in_font-3742?v=1#x55442

Fontainebleau is in mourning. No one has died, but some of the area's best problems have been terribly vandalized. The action was deliberate and premeditated, targeting a handful of classics in two of the most popular areas. At Cuvier, holds have been hammered off Fatman, Antithèse, Infidèle, Carnage, and Boucherie. The extent of the damage varies. On Carnage and Boucherie only the first holds have been destroyed, but Fatman, the first 8b (V13) in the forest, has been almost completely obliterated -- only the first one-finger pocket remains. At Apremont two famous 7a's (V5s) have been attacked; Médaille en Chocolat and La Dalle du Dromadaire are now unclimbable.

The vandal is known. Tragically, he is a keen Fontainebleau boulderer -- although his action did not stem from any incident in the forest. Described by acquaintances as psychologically fragile, "Luc" (at this time locals do not want release his full name for fear of reprisals) had worked for two years at a rock gym in nearby Melun. According to users of the gym, he felt he was being exploited and possibly underpaid, and allegedly started stealing holds and other items from the premises. When the gym owners confronted him, he became angry and threatened to "break everything in the forest." Later the owners filed a complaint with the police and Luc carried out his threat. The day after the complaint, Luc went to the boulders with a hammer. Several climbers witnessed his actions but were unable to intervene. Luc is a big man and was allegedly armed and trailed by a large dog.

After the chipping, locals filed a complaint against Luc with the National Forest Office. Ironically, although damaging trees on public land in Fontainebleau would be a criminal act, damaging rocks is not.

This is not the first time problems have been chipped or altered at Fontainebleau, but it is the most systematic act of vandalism. "Even if nobody has been killed, it is like a little bit of our history has died," says local Jacky Godoffe. It may be possible to recreate some of the destroyed holds, but many locals believe the damaged problems should not be fixed. "It would leave the rocks vulnerable to bad or inaccurate repairs," says Godoffe. "They have suffered enough."

Godoffe believes the saddest part of the episode is "the despair of this man."

Luc is now reported to be undergoing psychiatric treatment.

-- Baptiste Briand