Climbs

Evilution/Evilution Direct usually starts from stacked pads, this is the proper stand start. It only adds two moves to the start of the problem, but those two moves are incredibly hard bumping the grade from 8A/+ to 8C+.

It was a long standing and well known project before Sean Bailey made the first ascent in 2024.

The name comes from the long neck and small brain you'll need to climb the route (as Brown said of Crew)!

Ken Wilson, writing in Mountain Craft (summer 1967):

On the 19th June, 1966, Joe Brown and Pete Crew climbed together for the first time and probably the strongest team ever to set foot on rock in this country made a bid to crack this "last great problem." They started early but they encountered such difficulty that both climbers were driven back several times. Late afternoon they were established on a stance in the middle of the wall. The cliff at this point was appallingly loose and it seemed as if they were hanging from tottering blocks all the time. All the loose material they pulled off was dropping into the sea 20 feet out from the base of the climb. They eventually finished at 9.30 p.m. The technical difficulty was high and the danger from loose rock was so considerable Dinosaur, as they called the climb, must stand out as one of the most formidable expeditions in Wales. [1]

References

[1] Gogarth (1990), page 268 /library/7294/gogarth

Named after Pink Floyd's 14th album of the same name [1].

References

[1] https://gripped.com/profiles/free-will-the-climbing-life-of-jim-sandford/

The first 6 quickdraws are ~8c to a rest, then 8A boulder, 8A+ boulder to another rest and then 8c+ to the top.