Climbs

First free ascent of the main angel falls amphitheatre wall by a substantially new line. Its 31 pitches included nine E7s and took the seven-person team nineteen days to climb. The route overhangs some 60m in its 1,000m length, making it a contender for the most overhanging big wall in the world.

The route was approached from the ground with the hardest pitches headpointed. No bolts were placed for lead protection, five were placed as portaledge anchors. The team took three weeks to ascend the wall, living off portaledges for most of it. Miles Gibson did pitch 27, E7 6b, after 16 days on the wall.

Route: Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, E7 6b): All-free ascent of the Angel Falls wall, following the general line of Ruta Directa (1,150m, VI 6b A4, Gálvez-Medinabeitía, 1990), with many variations and an independent finish for the final eight pitches; Anne Arran, John Arran (U.K.), Ivan Calderón (Ven.), Miles Gibson (U.K.), Ben Heason (U.K.), Alex Klenov (Rus.), and Alfredo Rangel (Ven.), March 18-April 5, 2005.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200613400/Rainbow-Jambaia

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWZdlNqTfEE

The first 9b in the UK and the hardest route climbed by a Brit at the time it was first climbed.

The route starts up Rainshadow before breaking slightly rightward to join and finish up Bat Route. Breakdown is roughly 8a/+ (Raindogs without grabbing the chains) to 8A to 8c+.

The first 9a in Australia (if you ignore The Wheel of Life). Lee Cossey spent some time working the route while it was a project but it had to wait for a visiting Alex Megos to seal the deal in 2013.