Climbs

A direct start to Animal Magnetism which adds a hard boulder problem.

Niall Grimes:

Matthew, in chapter 14, tells the story of the disciples seeing Jesus walk on the lake:

28 Peter called to Him 'Lord, if it is you, tell me to come to you over the water'. 'Come' said Jesus.
29 Peter stepped down from the boat and walked over the water towards Jesus.
30 But when he saw the strength of the gale he was seized with fear; and beginning to sink, he cried 'Save me, Lord.'
31 Jesus at once reached out and caught hold of him, and said, 'Why did you hesitate? How little faith you have!'

This bible story serves well as an illustration of what you need to climb Archangel. It will confound the Book of Numbers. A man may well boulder 6c and redpoint 7c, but without faith he is no more likely to succeed than the man who has bouldered 5c, for without faith, even a rich man is more likely to get into the Kingdom of God than to climb Archangel. And you must have faith, not in the hand of god, but in thyself. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 67, page 43

Horai in Japan

Unusually for grit the route is protected by 3 bolts...though the bolts are tiny, old aid bolts circa 1969. Pete Whittaker tested them in a fall, but probably best to avoid falling off if you can.