Climbs

Chris Sharma, the first ascenionist:

It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky. They require lot of coordination and muscle memory, everything has to be just right, you have to be amped but at the same time let it flow effortlessly. It’s at least 9b, but I’ve decided to give it the b+ slash grade because, who knows, perhaps it’s even harder. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/chris-sharma-interview-after-new-9b-climb-at-cova-de-ocell-in-spain.html

Originally soloed at E7 and given E8 in the 2005 guide. Now more commonly climbed above a big stack of pads.

Prior to Adrian Berry's ascent, the route had been claimed by Chris Parker as '10,000 Maniacs', but the claim was not considered credible – for unknown reasons. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/gritstone-route-info-beta-thread.4721/post-124182

Kjerag, Norway Norwegian grade 8-

References

[1] https://www.geocities.ws/readza1/climbing/gritlist/grit_e9.html

Originally climbed on bolts by Gary Gibson before Ian Vickers made the first trad ascent.

A more direct exit to Evilution (8A+), which moves left at the lip.

One of the first problems in Fontainebleau to be suggested at 8B alongside Enigma. In 2001 a disgruntled local destroyed the problem by knocking off holds with a hammer. [1] Prior to the vandalism Fred Nicole climbed a sitstart rating it 8B/+.

The problem took a left-hand line through the roof, starting on a mono in the middle. Unrepeated since the vandalism it has been superseded by Gourmandise (8B) which takes a line slightly to the right.

Fatman is graded 8A+ on bleau.info and in Philippe Le Denmat's guide 'Cent ans d'escalade au Cuvier Rempart' but 8B in the 7+8 guide.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/karma_chipped_in_font-3742?v=1#x55442

Fontainebleau is in mourning. No one has died, but some of the area's best problems have been terribly vandalized. The action was deliberate and premeditated, targeting a handful of classics in two of the most popular areas. At Cuvier, holds have been hammered off Fatman, Antithèse, Infidèle, Carnage, and Boucherie. The extent of the damage varies. On Carnage and Boucherie only the first holds have been destroyed, but Fatman, the first 8b (V13) in the forest, has been almost completely obliterated -- only the first one-finger pocket remains. At Apremont two famous 7a's (V5s) have been attacked; Médaille en Chocolat and La Dalle du Dromadaire are now unclimbable.

The vandal is known. Tragically, he is a keen Fontainebleau boulderer -- although his action did not stem from any incident in the forest. Described by acquaintances as psychologically fragile, "Luc" (at this time locals do not want release his full name for fear of reprisals) had worked for two years at a rock gym in nearby Melun. According to users of the gym, he felt he was being exploited and possibly underpaid, and allegedly started stealing holds and other items from the premises. When the gym owners confronted him, he became angry and threatened to "break everything in the forest." Later the owners filed a complaint with the police and Luc carried out his threat. The day after the complaint, Luc went to the boulders with a hammer. Several climbers witnessed his actions but were unable to intervene. Luc is a big man and was allegedly armed and trailed by a large dog.

After the chipping, locals filed a complaint against Luc with the National Forest Office. Ironically, although damaging trees on public land in Fontainebleau would be a criminal act, damaging rocks is not.

This is not the first time problems have been chipped or altered at Fontainebleau, but it is the most systematic act of vandalism. "Even if nobody has been killed, it is like a little bit of our history has died," says local Jacky Godoffe. It may be possible to recreate some of the destroyed holds, but many locals believe the damaged problems should not be fixed. "It would leave the rocks vulnerable to bad or inaccurate repairs," says Godoffe. "They have suffered enough."

Godoffe believes the saddest part of the episode is "the despair of this man."

Luc is now reported to be undergoing psychiatric treatment.

-- Baptiste Briand

Originally graded 8B/8B+, making it perhaps the hardest climb in the forest at the time.