Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Shadowboxing Sport route 9a 4
Sideways Daze Boulder problem 8B 4

The starting hold has now fallen off, the problem is likely no longer possible.

Something's Burning Trad climb E9 4

~8a+ on fiddly and not-amazing gear.

Southern Smoke Sport route 8c+ 4
Star Slinger Boulder problem 8A+ 4
Storm Warning Variation Sport route 8a 4
Stranger Than Fiction Trad climb E10 4
Superstition Trad climb E8 4
Surreal Appeal Trad climb E7 4
Sviní Mor Boulder problem 8B 4
Tequila Mockingbird Sport route 7c+ 4

Originally climbed using yo-yo tactics it was later redpointed by Jean-Pierre Bouvier who renamed it Gandalf le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent, which did not sit very well with the local climbers of the time who viewed the frenchman's redpoint tactics as poor style. The new name and claim didn't stick.

Initially climbed with 2 bolts it has variously gained and lost bolts over the years, but now seems to have settled at 4.

References

[1] Peak Limestone North history supplement, page 49 https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1291

Thai Boxing Trad climb E7 4
The Automator Boulder problem 8B 4
The Bastard Sport route 8c+ 4

Originally given 8c but upgraded to 8c+. Approximately font 8A+/B in to font 7C.

The line was originally aid climbed by Chris Craggs and Colin Binks and called Free that you Bastards. Ben Moon was working the line but came back to find holds had been chipped off. John Welford then took on the challenge and sealed the deal after a protracted siege.

The Bridge of Ashes Boulder problem 8C 4

Named after the sci-fi novel of the same name by Roger Zelazny.

The Brute Sport route 8b 4
The Buttermilker Boulder problem 8A+ 4
The Cleaver Trad climb E8 4
The Clown Trad climb E7 4
The Escapist Boulder problem 8B 4

< Page 39 >