Boulder problems

Around 2019 some pebbles broke on the crux holds making the problem slightly harder.

5D in the Japanese bouldering grading system.

Originally put up as 8B+, the consensus seems to have shifted to 8B.

A new sequence with kneebars has significantly reduced the difficulty compared to the original sequence.

The 'Mona Lisa of bouldering', according to Niccolò Ceria, this stunning arête is one of the quintessential problems of Fontainebleau.

Jacky Godoffe and Marc le Menestrel vied for the first ascent:

Who, Jacky or Marc, conquered the boulder first? In a spirit of brotherhood, both climbers blur the lines, each valuing the other’s effort. That day, they decided to share the first ascent, thus linking their names to the story of the boulder they would together call ‘Partage’. [1]

In 2009, a ‘finger jug’ snapped off, revealing a characteristic hole. This may have made it a little harder.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C09aKQQtBaT/

Named after John Allen, a prolific force in the Peak District, who sadly died shortly before the first ascent.

Originally climbed with a desperate feet low sequence (~8B), this was subsequently improved slightly with a toe on the rail (abely demonstrated by Ben Moon in Hard Grit) before some heel hooking technique was applied which lowered the grade to 7C.

A minor variation avoiding the jug and going straight to the top at ~8A called Fight Club has been climbed. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 95, page 19

The crux first move is 8B+ on it's own, with a tricky ~8Aish sequence still to do after you stick the start.

Lou Ferrino in to Trigger Cut.

Previously considered 8B until new knee bar beta lowered the grade.