Trad climbs

A bold E6 with 3 bolts. Retro-bolted by Dave Cuthbertson in 1995.

Top pitch had previously been climbed by Richard Harrison at E3.

No fixed gear on the first ascent. Martin Crocker added two pegs and slightly straightened the line for the second ascent in 1992. The two pegs were replaced by bolts in 2024.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CW0xqzEoEUz/

Originally a trad route climbed on glued pegs. These have now been replaced with some bolts. Originally the bolts were going to replace the pegs on a like for like basis, but ended up in a spaced configuration to maintain a trad feel without it requiring double ropes to climb.

Kristian Clemmow:

It was Jerry [Moffatt] who was keen for his route to be re-equipped as no one seems to have done it in years. Initially Haydn drilled some holes for resin bolts directly next to the old pegs but never finished the job.

Verbal Abuse was climbed with twin ropes with a baby bouncer fall at the crux. This would have involved a traverse or a down climb to set up so I suggested to Jerry putting the bolts at 180° to the original peg placements but in a straight line so people could use a single rope. You'd still get a similar experience that he wanted to be maintained. There is nothing stopping you stick clipping the first and extending the draws if you wish. It's a compromise. No doubt someone will add a few more bolts it the future.

Unusually for grit the route is protected by 3 bolts...though the bolts are tiny, old aid bolts circa 1969. Pete Whittaker tested them in a fall, but probably best to avoid falling off if you can.