Climbs / Index

Trad climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,307 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,183 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Parthian Shot Trad climb E10 5

A route with history. Originally climbed by John Dunne who thought the gear behind the flake wouldn't hold a fall. Seb Grieve eventually broke the spell 8 years after the first ascent by making the second ascent and taking some memorable falls in the process, with the route slowly gaining a reputation for being relatively safe. Seb's ascent was caught on film for Hard Grit with Niall Grimes memorably commenting

It held, that shipwreck of a flake actually held!

The route rapidly regained it's dangerous reputation when visiting Canadian Will Stanhope snapped the flake off while attempting the route ground up. Fortunately he escaped with just a broken ankle.

Plans to bolt the flake back on thankfully came to nothing.

The route was re-climbed by Ben Bransby at the very chunky grade of E10, featuring sport 8b climbing and significantly worse gear, though also with a side runner in the adjacent Brooks Crack which was placed higher than pre-break ascents. Repeats followed in the same style. James Pearson then improved further on the style by starting up Dynamics of Change, thus avoiding the use of side runners in Brooks Crack, and placing all gear on lead. By this point, a hold had broken on the lower part of the route, further increasing the physical difficulty.

Originally the route was written up with the name 'Partheon Shot' but this was a mis-spelling and the current spelling is correct. The name is based on an old cavalry tactic where a horse archer would turn and fire a shot while retreating, a reference by John to some in the Sheffield scene at the time who were critical of him. See wikipedia for details.

Pineapple Express Variation Trad climb E8 5
Private World Trad climb E5 5

Mick Fowler. Shale. Need we say more?

Psychogramm Trad climb E9 5
Rasberry Dream Trad climb E5 5
Return of the Jedi Trad climb E8 5
Return of the King Trad climb E9 5
Sad Amongst Friends Trad climb E7 5
Shrike Trad climb E2 5
Snap Decision Trad climb E7 5

The route originally had a thin peg runner at the top of the groove, providing some protection for the crux reach around the overhang. By the early 2000s it was in a poor state and by 2008 it was gone, leaving ascentionists to run it out to top a long way above the single remaining peg (replaced around 2008).

Sphinx Crack Trad climb E8 5

Frequently climbed on pre-placed gear.

St. John's Head Original Route Trad climb E3 5
Stranger Than Fiction Trad climb E10 5
Sunday Sport Trad climb E6 (approx) 5

HXS.

Superstition Trad climb E8 5
The 39 Slaps Trad climb E7 5
The Angry Pirate Finish Trad climb E7 5
The Bad and the Beautiful Trad climb E7 5
The Clown Trad climb E7 5
The Dark Side Trad climb E9 5

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