John Dunne

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References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=188

Aged 14

I fell of the crux onsight putting the gear in in 1985 lowered off and did it after 3 attempts, yo yo style. I then returned a week later leading the route and putting all the gear in in one push. This was the first time all the gear had been put in on lead and the route done in this fashion.

References

[1] A record of ground-up and on-sight climbing on Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire gritstone

First ascent.

First repeat after loss of a pebble

Second ascent.

John was straight in for a repeat after seeing the route written up the Stoney new routes book.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 109, page 19 /library/11131/mountain-109

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?si=ctJ66ts-BZoeifUs&t=832

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/933538446712331

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?si=g1nTc1J3-LANqdIy&t=321

First ascent.

Second ascent.

Second ascent.

References

[1] Email exchange, September 2023

[2] On The Edge, issue 114

First ascent.

Third ascent.

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 192

First ascent. Around 15 sessions. Third go.

John top roped the route within 40 minutes on his first visit, finding it similar in difficulty to Austrian Oak. He then spent another 12-15 sessions on the route. Believing the flake would not hold a fall, he was rescued on two lead attempts. All gear was placed on lead, with the rope to the runner in Brooks Crack dropped at the half way point to save weight. (2)

He graded the route HXS 7a, with others touting a grade of E10.

There was scepticism from some at the time that John had actually climbed the route, suggesting that the photographs were staged; this has subsequently turned out to be baseless.

References

[1] John repeating the route on top rope for John Dunne - The Big Issue around 1996 https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=1448

[2] ‘Peak Rock’ p.276

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?si=3a0hFWT-Xbwoopyd&t=1993

Second ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

First ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/3D0Mp0RrQRA?t=921

First ascent.

References

[1] Climber July 1997, page 5

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 67, page 8

Third ascent.

Reported as the second ascent [1], unclear whether this was a typo and Neil Gresham actually made the second or third ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 73

First ascent.

First ascent.

John climbed the top two pitches only, incorrectly believing the lower pitches two have been significantly affected by rockfall.

Neil Gresham:

John had been misled by a 'grapevine rumour' that the bottom two pitches had been destroyed by rockfalls. I informed him that they still existed in perfectly climbable form (apart from the second bolt on pitch one, which fortunately has a good nut slot right next to it). [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 71, page 15

First ascent.

References

[1] Hard Grit (1998)

First ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 88, page 79

Second ascent.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 92, page 11

[2] One the Edge Issue 91, page 11

First free ascent.

John's last significant new route.

First ascent.

First ascent.

I've never had to put so much effort into a route before - regularly slogging up to the crag and then having to go to work was so tiring. I tried bivvying below the crag but I was too knackered in the morning. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 100, page 10

John suggested a grade of HXS