Climbers

Climber Name # Ascents Recorded Notes
Arnis Strapcans 26

Arnis Strapcans was a British climber who was active in the 1970s. He was killed in a suspected fall from the Brenva Spur on Mont Blanc in 1980.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/the_late_arnie_strapcans-423688

[2] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/arnie_strapcans-390263?v=1#x5631533

Austin Hoyt 26
Jun Shibanuma 26
Klem Loskot 26

Udo Neumann:

There are two factors which determine the quality of movement: Precision on one side, speed on the other. If you are very precise, like Marc le Menestrel, you tend to be rather slow. If you are fast you tend to be sloppy. It's always a trade-off. In my opinion, Klem is the climber at the moment who balances these factors best and potentially can climb the hardest things.

Of course there is more to hard climbing but this gives you an idea of Klem's style - very accurate and very speedy. A friend once described Klem as "digital", either 'on' or 'off'.

Spending time around him is like being surrounded by a nice, comforting but blurry cloud, whereas Klem himself seems to live in this ultrasharp, high contrast environment where things and thoughts happen very quickly. When tired or bored Klem falls asleep instantly, with little awareness of what's going on around him. [1]

References

[1] Klem Lostkot by Mike Robertson, On The Edge Issue 114, page 54

Mick Fowler 26

Mick Fowler is a British mountaineer and climber. He is known for his adventurous, lightweight and ambitious ascents in the Himalaya as well as a range of very adventurous new routes in the UK.

Nathan Lee 26
Taylor McNeill 26
Tom Bolger 26

Tom is a British expat living in Spain, where he has done most of his harder climbing.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/tom-bolger-interview-pro-climber/

Adam Shahar 25
Crispin Waddy 25

One of the early developers of deep water soloing in the UK.

Ed Drummond 25

Mick Ward:

Ed Drummond was probably the most visionary figure in British climbing history. He left a legacy of stunning routes and superb writing. And he had a reputation for having the most complicated, mercurial character imaginable. [2]

References

[1] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-dream-of-edwin-drummond

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/ed_drummond_1945-2019_-_a_retrospective-11940

[3] https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/rip_ed_drummond-704064

[4] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3195076/RIP-Edwin-Drummond

[5] https://www.thebmc.co.uk/thats-me-ed-drummond

Ian Vickers 25
John Arran 25

John Arran is a very accomplished trad climber with adventurous first ascents across the UK, North and South America and beyond, often climbed onsight. Spending 3 years in the US in the 80s, John onsight soloed multipitch routes up to 5.12, a level that has not been surpassed today. In the late 90s he dabbled in gritstone headpointing, climbing The Zone and the unrepeated Doctor Dolittle E10.

On 20th June 2003 John and his partner for the day Shane Ohly soloed or descended 536 routes in a mammoth single day. [1] Following in the footsteps of Ron Fawcett's Arran climbed 100 extremes in a day in 2001, all at Stanage with 55 of them onsight. [2,3]

John helped pioneer big wall free climbing in Venezuela, culminating in Rainbow Jambaia (E7) on Angel Falls, one the most spectacular hard big walls in the world.

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 130, page 11

[2] On The Edge Issue 113, page 32

[3] http://www.thefreeclimber.com/johnHistory.htm

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgHRLSBiGvo

Luke Dawson 25
Tristan Chen 25
Wolfgang Güllich 25

A man doesn't go to drink coffee after climbing, coffee is integral part of the climbing.

A sport climbing pioneer. Wolfgang established the first 8b with Kanal im Rücken, 8b+ with Punks in the Gym and 8c with Wallstreet as well as one of the first 8c+/9as with Action Directe.

References

[1] At Raven Tor in the 80s

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/2698243753575116

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1465090346890469

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/remembering-wolfgang-gullich-one-of-greatest-climbers-of-all-times.html

[5] A collection of articles from http://www.wolfgangguellich.com/

[6] Hepp, T., Güllich, W. (1994). Wolfgang Güllich: Life in the Vertical : a Biography. Germany: Boulder Edition.

Yuta Imaizumi 25
Anna Wild 24
Camille Coudert 24

Camille is a French boulderer whom resides in the infamous Fontainebleau. He is well known for his 70+ session siege on Soudain Seul 9A/V17 in which he repeated The Big Island 8C/V15, 43 times.

More recently Camille has picked up a number of 8C/V15 ascents and has had over 100 session s on Imothep Assis which is believed to be around 9A/V17.

References

[1] https://bleau.info/profiles/camille.coudert

Clément Lechaptois 24

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTVFRm5kMeE

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