Climbers

Climber Name # Ascents Recorded Notes
Lee Sungsu 11
Loïc Zehani 11
Lucas Uchida 11
Lynn Hill 11

John Long:

I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. [2]

Hill has experienced only one major accident in her climbing career. On May 9, 1989, she fell during a climb in Buoux, after forgetting to tie in, she fell 85 ft (25 m) into a tree, and was knocked unconscious, dislocated her left elbow and broke a bone in her foot. She had been training hard for the World Cup and had to stop competing for a few months to recover; she was devastated to miss the first World Cup in the sport. However, only six weeks after her fall, she was back climbing.

References

[1] Half Dome, 1977

[2] https://www.climbandmore.com/climbers/lynn-hill/

[3] Portrait by Dean Fidelman, 1997 https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr3uphIJ2Gy/

[4] Interview with Natalie Berry for UKClimbing.com March 2017 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/lynn_hill_-_climbing_free-9151

[5] Interview with Hannah Morris, 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE9_oAPRTsE

[6] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3pPhmAHHd46EAjdQkfb09Z?

Magnus Midtbø 11

Magnus Midtbø is a Norwegian sport climber and boulderer. He competed extensively between 2002 and 2015 while also climbing hard outdoors at the same time, notably he climbed Ali Hulk (extension sit start) 9b in 2010 (without knee pads!) and onsighted Cosi Fan Tutte 8c+ in 2013.

Since retiring from competitions he has started one of the most successful climbing youtube channels [2], and has also launched an online education platform called Altitude Climbing. [3]

References

[1] Interview with RockClimbingUK, 2012 https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=23695.0

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_2GqTlg--Q

Martin Keller 11

Martin Keller is Swiss bouldering specialist. He is known for his dedication to long term projects, spending 100+ sessions on some of his hardest ascents, and training for projects by climbing on the project itself.

Notable ascents include:

Nathaniel Coleman 11

Silver medalist in the Tokyo 2020 olympics.

Neil Bentley 11
Niall Grimes 11

Narrator of Hard Grit, host of Jam Crack Climbing Podcast and all round sound guy.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/my_map_of_the_world-15863

Nicolas Favresse 11

Features in The Power of the Jam.

Philip Jewel 11

Jimmy Jewel was part of the 1980s climbing scene in Llanberis. He was well known for his solo climbing.

He died while down-climbing at Tremadog.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVmLaXiMXm0

Piotr Schab 11
Tim Clifford 11
Toby Roberts 11

Toby won gold in the 2024 Paris Olympics to become the first Brit to medal in a climbing event at the olympics.

References

[1] Interview with Steve McClure and Niall Grimes for the BMC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHiz8LbUqvU

[2] Interview with Ollie Torr for Lattice Training, December 2021 https://latticetraining.com/2021/12/02/interview-with-lattice-client-toby-roberts/

[3] How I won Climbing Gold in Paris, September 2024 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_sB0a4U-MQ

[4] Interview with The Times Dec 2024 https://www.thetimes.com/sport/olympics/article/toby-roberts-interview-sport-climbing-paris-2024-tfsxkrs5t

Alan Watts 10

Alan Watts is a US climber best known as one of the early proponents of sport climbing style in the US, and one of the key developers of Smith Rock in Oregon.

Together with contemporaries such as Todd Skinner and Lynn Hill, Alan was among the first climbers in the US to embrace bolting on rappel and more extensive working of routes. While these practices were common in Europe at the time, the prevailing ethic in the US had been that any bolting should happen from the ground up and that practicing routes was not allowed.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B8ZFlVQpnjT/

[2] Interview with planetmountain https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alan-watts-climbing-interview.html

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/4FjBxA5DE8uThD93tsz9XM?

Alex Khazanov 10
Alizée Dufraisse 10
Camille Coudert 10

References

[1] https://bleau.info/profiles/camille.coudert

Charlie Woodburn 10
Ed Hamer 10

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