Kevin Jorgeson

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References

[1] Ben Bransby adding some detail on the style of Kevin's ascent https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/james_pearson_climbs_parthian_shot_e10_6c-763419?v=1#x9822066

Me and Pete Robins tried it ground up in the weeks before KJs [Kevin Jorgeson's] ascent. The first day we placed all the gear on lead but did fall off, and hence turn it into a yoyo style ascent (it was still really scary). Pete went home and I tried it a few more times (over the next 2 weeks). I abbed in (with eyes shut, honest, not that it matters!) and placed only the same gear in the flake for my subsequent visits. Obv this was pushing the boundaries of what might or might not count as ground up, but I was only doing it this way because that was how I wanted to try it, not to set any records. On my last visit I felt I had given it a good enough go in this style, fallen off a fair few times, so gave up. Kevin did join me on this session and had a few goes but didn't succeed. He didn't place any of the gear but used mine, which was essentially pre clipped and pre placed for him - like I say it was gear which had (kinda) been placed on lead, and not 10 perfect pieces placed from abb. He went back another day and did do the 'ground up' ascent - I think someone else abbed in for him and placed the gear, maybe more/better than what I had been using?

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mft3k_f0vOM

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/new_statesman_and_ulysses_-_visiting_americans-45389

Kevin found an easier sequence and used a couple of pads to improve the landing.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/kevin_jorgeson_repeats_the_promise-45410

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/10/the_promise__-_kevins_account-45411

Kevin took a different line to the first ascent after the initial groove section, finishing up relatively easy climbing which avoids the second hard (though safe) sequence on the route.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-OdxfCrXe4

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/11/kevin_jorgeson_on_the_groove_-_cratcliffe-45458

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B_my7ogDe11/

Not really a boulder problem.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-free-climb-the-dawn-wall-on-el-capitan.html

[2] The Dawn Wall (2017)