Alex Huber

Also known as: Huberbuam

Quick Info

From: Germany 🇩🇪
Gender: Male
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Notable Partnerships
Thomas Huber
Family
Thomas Huber (sibling)

References

[1] Features in Am Limit (German) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgjwhkE67to

[2] Interview in On The Edge 118, page 40

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5RyHgKL5QS3eThUoWPOrZ8?

[4] Interview with Magnus Midtbø 2018 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSepsUJKdHs

Contributors
115 contributions since 27th September 2021.
22 contributions since 12th July 2025.
TdG
6 contributions since 29th September 2025.

Quick Info

From: Germany 🇩🇪
Gender: Male
Hardest Sport (Worked): 9a+
Hardest Trad (Worked): E10
Notable Partnerships
Thomas Huber
Family
Thomas Huber (sibling)

References

[1] Features in Am Limit (German) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgjwhkE67to

[2] Interview in On The Edge 118, page 40

[3] https://open.spotify.com/episode/5RyHgKL5QS3eThUoWPOrZ8?

[4] Interview with Magnus Midtbø 2018 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSepsUJKdHs

Contributors
115 contributions since 27th September 2021.
22 contributions since 12th July 2025.
TdG
6 contributions since 29th September 2025.

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Ascents

22 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Alex originally suggested 8c+ but later upgraded this to 9a.

Exactly 100 years ago Sophie Scholl was borne. Together with her brother she formed the core of the White Rose, a resistance group against the Nazi regime in Germany. After about one year their activities got discovered, they were arrested by the Gestapo and sentenced to death. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/COqVjQ2Dqu5/

Alex was able to link the route from after the jump, but was convinced the jump was not possible for someone of his size. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7hei30STtvpjEBFqkFPCYi?

La Rambla First ascent. 8c+ Lead | worked 1994
Black Power First ascent. 8c+ Lead | worked 1996
Orca First ascent. 8c+ Lead | worked 2001 8c+
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Huber claimed this as the first free ascent as he led all the hard pitches. However he avoided the pitch above The Ear (8a) instead taking the Monster Offwidth. He climbed the headwall in two pitches taking a belay at a hands-off rest.

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/connor-herson-frees-5-13c-on-el-cap-its-not-the-salathe-if-you-do-the-monster-offwidth/

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199606700/Freeing-the-Salath-The-Greatest-Rock-Climb-in-the-World

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 84, page 46

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199901800

First free ascent.

The Monster offwidth is the nastiest kind of crack - just too narrow to disappear inside yet much too wide to get an efficient jam with any part of your body between it's parallel walls. The moves are abnormal; abnormally strenuous, abnormally irritating and abnormally time-consuming. It's a horror-show; inch by inch you scrape your was upwards, heading towards release and redemption. It's a real battle, and it is just this confrontation with oft-quoted adventure that we are searching for in this vertical world. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 104, page 12, page 32

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/golden-gate-the-huber-brothers-climb-el-capitan.html

Eternal Flame With Thomas Huber. First free ascent. E8 Alternate Leads | worked Between 11th Aug 2009 and 14th Aug 2009
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade