Voie Petit | 8b Multi-pitch at Mont Blanc du Tacul


16 pitches.
Contributors
TdG
68 contributions since 28th September 2025.
remus
60 contributions since 6th September 2024.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

12 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Arnaud Petit Alternate Leads 1997
First ascent. With Stephanie Bodet.

With some aid.

Stephanie Bodet Alternate Leads 1997
First ascent. With Arnaud Petit.

With some aid.

Alex Huber Lead | worked 17th Jul 2005
First free ascent.

Led every pitch in a single push.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-huber-frees-voie-petit-on-grand-capucin.html

Dušan Janák Alternate Leads | worked 2007
Second ascent. With Václav Šatava.
Václav Šatava Alternate Leads | worked 2007
Second ascent. With Dušan Janák.
James McHaffie Alternate Leads | worked Aug 2009
Third ascent. With Adam Long and Ben Bransby.

We got it! 4 days, flashed all but crux roof which I got 2nd redpoint.

Adam Long:

Over on the Petit Cap, I reach a comfortable notch which gives a grandstand view of the boys and settle in. Through my telephoto I watch Caff lead an easy pitch off the ledges, and then Ben sets off on the F8a arête above, in an incredible position.

Ben: ‘I give it everything first go, keen to even things up a bit and have Caff second me on this one. The initial crack goes okay and then I get to the arête, a section Huber described as ‘very technical’, and the move which stopped his first in-a-day attempt. But the bolt in Huber’s photos is just a stud, and above is a new bolt, which I can’t reach. Now before I can try the move I’ve got to do a harder one just to clip!’

In my viewfinder I watch him fall, try again, and fall again. After four falls he lowers back down. Things are finely balanced. With more hard pitches above getting this done quickly is crucial. It is so high on the tower that it’s unlikely we’ll have the time or energy to return for a redpoint.

Ben: ‘It makes sense to give Caff a blast. He doesn’t suffer the same problem – I watch his fingers clamp onto the crimp I was struggling to hold and the bolt is clipped. He is struggling though, so much so that even the apologizing has stopped. ‘Out right Caff, a good flake!’ A quick slap and he is at a shake out, 15ft of E5, a big yell and he is at the belay – F8a on-sight at 3,750m.’

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/mchaffie_and_bransby_-petit_route-_grand_capucin-48850

[2] http://www.adamlong.co.uk/about/articles/capucin.pdf

Ben Bransby Alternate Leads | worked Aug 2009
David Lama Lead | worked 2010
Caroline Ciavaldini Lead | worked Jul 2016
With James Pearson.

First female ascent. Led all pitches in a single push.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/07/voie_petit_8b_450m_for_caroline_ciavaldini-70562

Eduard Marin Lead | worked 20th Jul 2017
Nina Caprez Lead | worked Jul 2019
Siebe Vanhee Rope Solo | ground up Between 24th Jun 2025 and 25th Jun 2025