Voie Petit | 8b Multi-pitch at Mont Blanc du Tacul

More

• Change Log
• Threads

First ascent. With Stephanie Bodet.

With some aid.

First ascent. With Arnaud Petit.

With some aid.

First free ascent.

Led every pitch in a single push.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alexander-huber-frees-voie-petit-on-grand-capucin.html

Second ascent. With Václav Šatava.

Second ascent. With Dušan Janák.

Third ascent. With Adam Long and Ben Bransby.

We got it! 4 days, flashed all but crux roof which I got 2nd redpoint.

Adam Long:

Over on the Petit Cap, I reach a comfortable notch which gives a grandstand view of the boys and settle in. Through my telephoto I watch Caff lead an easy pitch off the ledges, and then Ben sets off on the F8a arête above, in an incredible position.

Ben: ‘I give it everything first go, keen to even things up a bit and have Caff second me on this one. The initial crack goes okay and then I get to the arête, a section Huber described as ‘very technical’, and the move which stopped his first in-a-day attempt. But the bolt in Huber’s photos is just a stud, and above is a new bolt, which I can’t reach. Now before I can try the move I’ve got to do a harder one just to clip!’

In my viewfinder I watch him fall, try again, and fall again. After four falls he lowers back down. Things are finely balanced. With more hard pitches above getting this done quickly is crucial. It is so high on the tower that it’s unlikely we’ll have the time or energy to return for a redpoint.

Ben: ‘It makes sense to give Caff a blast. He doesn’t suffer the same problem – I watch his fingers clamp onto the crimp I was struggling to hold and the bolt is clipped. He is struggling though, so much so that even the apologizing has stopped. ‘Out right Caff, a good flake!’ A quick slap and he is at a shake out, 15ft of E5, a big yell and he is at the belay – F8a on-sight at 3,750m.’

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/mchaffie_and_bransby_-petit_route-_grand_capucin-48850

[2] http://www.adamlong.co.uk/about/articles/capucin.pdf

Third ascent. With Adam Long and James McHaffie.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/mchaffie_and_bransby_-petit_route-_grand_capucin-48850

[2] http://www.adamlong.co.uk/about/articles/capucin.pdf

With James Pearson.

First female ascent. Led all pitches in a single push.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/07/voie_petit_8b_450m_for_caroline_ciavaldini-70562

With Francisco Marín.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoPAsWfpz84

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nina-caprez-flys-up-grand-capucin-voie-petit.html

References

[1] https://fanatic-climbing.com/siebe-vanhee-repete-la-voie-petit-en-solo-auto-assure-siebe-vanhee-climbed-la-voie-petit-in-a-rope-solo-ascent/