Shauna Coxsey


Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 27th January 1993
Age: 32 years old
Gender: Female
Height: 164 cm
Weight: 58 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Notable Partnerships
Ned Feehally
Leah Crane

Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.

While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of New Base Line 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.

References

[1] https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g

Contributors
67 contributions since 30th January 2021.
1 contribution since 4th June 2024.

Quick Info

From: United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Date of birth: 27th January 1993
Age: 32 years old
Gender: Female
Height: 164 cm
Weight: 58 kg
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8B+
Hardest Boulder (Flash): 7C
Hardest Sport (Worked): 8b
Notable Partnerships
Ned Feehally
Leah Crane

Shauna Coxsey is a British boulderer and one of the strongest female climbers in the UK. She has won two bouldering world cups, firstly in 2016 and then in 2017.

While she was primarily a competition climber in her early career (up to the 2020 Tokyo olympics) she did occasionally climb outside, with highlights such as the first female ascent of New Base Line 8B+ in 2014, making her one of a handful of women to have climbed 8B+ at the time.

Since retiring from competitions and having a child she has switched focus to bouldering outdoors.

References

[1] https://web.archive.org/web/20171209231653/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/1WiWRSy1JEgXMpx4aBxA0g

Contributors
67 contributions since 30th January 2021.
1 contribution since 4th June 2024.

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Ascents

41 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown.
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Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
El Koala R1 8b Lead | worked 17th Oct 2013
Watermark 8a Lead | worked Mar 2009

Presumably Shauna has done something harder than 8a?!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/03/shauna_coxsey_on_form_in_spain-46278

Raindogs 8a Lead | worked Mar 2009

Age 16.

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
New Base Line 8B+ Boulder | worked Jul 2014
First female ascent.

With this ascent Shauna became only the third woman to climb 8B+ after Tomoko Ogawa and Ashima Shiraishi.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/07/shauna_coxsey_climbs_new_base_line_8b+-69038

Hazel Grace Stand Start 8B+ Boulder | worked 3rd Jan 2024
Fotofobia SDS 8B+ Boulder | worked 28th Feb 2024
Mito SDS 8B+ Boulder | worked 6th Feb 2025
Third ascent. 2 sessions. First female ascent.

[in the first session] It took me a few hours to figure out the start moves. They are super feisty! I had a few link goes but was a bit too tired to piece it together. After a good warm-up on my second session, I got close on my first go from the start but fired off one of the easier moves towards the end. It was a good test for my composure and focus to send it but luckily it came together a few attempts later. And just in time as my skin was suffering! Sintra bites!

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DF5XyEGMaop/

[2] Date confirmed via email correspondence

Nuthin' But Sunshine 8B Boulder | worked 26th Jun 2013
A Bigger Belly 8B Boulder | worked 28th Sep 2013
First female ascent.

Today I pulled on the smallest holds I have ever held and tried harder than I have ever tried. I climbed 'Bigger Belly' at Rubicon. I had to figure out a new sequence because the original method wasn't possible for me. Pictures as video coming soon!

A little controversially Shauna used a heel hook on a hold that is eliminated:

Totally unaware of the rules on this boulder problem I did what I normally do. I figured out a way to get between the holds that worked for me. I didn’t actually realise I was using a hold for my foot that was technically not in. It’s not like it made the boulder super easy. I was on a bad, tiny, little hold with my right hand and a backhand with my left kicking my left foot above my head to get my heel on. I think it could be the single hardest foot movement I have ever done.

I guess thinking back it totally makes sense that it isn’t ‘in’ as you could easily grab the big hold I put my heel on with your hand place your foot perfectly making the boulder problem significantly easier. To be honest I just knew where my hands had to go and put my feet where ever I could to make the moves between the hand holds possible. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/e9plDeqiqt/

[2] https://web.archive.org/web/20131005234708/http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/2013/10/a-fine-line/

One Summer in Paradise 8B Boulder | worked 3rd Jul 2014
Merlin's Beard 8B Boulder | worked 21st Sep 2019
Flip Flopera 8B Boulder | worked May 2023
Hydro 8B Boulder | worked Jun 2023
Wild Wild West 8B Boulder | worked 23rd Feb 2024
First female ascent.

References

[1] https://youtu.be/WE_OinkYHiw?t=266

Pin y Pon 8B Boulder | worked Between 23rd Feb 2024 and 26th Feb 2024
The Boss 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2024 8B+
Fat Lip 8B Boulder | worked Apr 2024
Superman 8B Boulder | worked 29th Jun 2024
Pilgrim 8A+ Boulder | worked Jun 2011

Shauna was 18 at the time. As of 2020, the youngest British woman to climb 8A+?

Probably also the first british woman to climb 8A+? Claire Murphy climbed some which were later downgraded.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/06/shauna_coxsey_climbs_pilgrim_-_v12-62564

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4D6SioHNuE

Mind Matters 8A+ Boulder | worked Jun 2012
Riddles in the Park 8A+ Boulder | worked Jun 2012
In Hell 8A+ Boulder | worked 12th Jul 2012
Ropes of Maui 8A+ Boulder | worked 5th Apr 2016
Forever More SDS 8A+ Boulder | worked 5th Nov 2023
Permanent Midnight 8A+ Boulder | worked 25th May 2024
Zoo York 8A Boulder | worked 16th Jan 2012
Tsunami 8A Boulder | worked 2013
Diesel Power 8A Boulder | worked 2014
Pendragon 8A Boulder | worked 27th Jul 2017
Kraft 8A Boulder | worked 2018
Young, Youth and Manhood 8A Boulder | worked 2023
Tourniquet 8A Boulder | worked 25th Feb 2023
Thick End of the Wedge 8A Boulder | worked 3rd Sep 2023
Freak Brothers 8A Boulder | worked
Lou Ferrino 7C+ Boulder | repeat
Hitchhiker's Direct SDS 7C+ Boulder | worked
The Yorkshireman SDS 7C+ Boulder | worked
Roof of a Baby Buddha 7C+ Boulder | worked
Rock Atrocity 7C Boulder | worked Jun 2009
Cosmic Wheels 7C Boulder | flash 2023
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Renegade Master E8 Solo | ground up Nov 2017
Third go.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade