Ulysses' Bow | E6 Trad climb at Stanage

United Kingdom / England / Hope Valley

Contributors
TdG
62 contributions since 29th August 2025.
remus
12 contributions since 20th February 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

6 successful ascents and 2 unsuccessful attempts recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade

Lead with a high side runner in Goliath's Groove. Livesey did not claim the line.

References

[1] https://www.climber.co.uk/people/the-john-allen-interview-crags-8-1977/

Top roped in EBs at English 7a.

Solo after top rope practice.

Certainly Ulysses was very dangerous. I mean, it was really dangerous. If you think, when I went there, there was nobody on the crag. We got the bus to Redmires and walked, so it was an hour's walk, nobody on the crag, no safety, nothing, no bouldering mats, no phones. I mean, if anything had happened, I would have been absolutely screwed. I only top roped it 10 times over two days, and then top roped it once and did it. I mean, it's ridiculous. I mean, now you top rope it till you're blue in the face. Till you have it totally wired. I mean, I top roped it 10 times and fell off it twice. I mean, it's crazy. (2)

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/1557591667640336

[2] https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/jam-crack-the-niall-grimes-climbing-podcast/id1065991509?i=1000554413296&r=3285

In his autobiography, Ron mentions that he had quickly repeated the route sometime prior to his ascent of Master's Edge

Climbed just after his onsight solo first ascent of Silk.

He had previously attempted to top rope the easier lower part of the route on a school trip, but the top section – the crux – was climbed on sight.

Neil attempted an onsight after watching Johnny's ascent. It ended in a serious fracture giving the name to Ulysses or Bust, which Neil had climbed the day before.

References

[1] https://climbing-history.org/climb/922/ulysses-or-bust

No pads

There are routes, eg Ulysses, where I chose not to use pads because of the historical aspect, but having returned to some of these routes with pads I've found the character of the route is retained more than you might expect.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/guest_editorial_a_gritstone_retrospective-342687

References

[1] High Mountain Issue 253, page 12