Mission Impossible | E9/8b Trad climb at Gallt yr Ogof

United Kingdom / Wales / Betws-y-Coed

See also Yma O Hyd.

Around 8a+ to 8b difficulty wise, protected by pegs and small wires. The in-situ gear has changed since the first ascent:

Rhoslyn Frugtniet:

Today, however, the route feels quite different from what Neil, Caff, and Oli would have experienced. Tied-off and equalised bomber pegs now provide the majority of the protection, requiring very little necessary additional gear. Good cams at the bottom and top then cover the pegless sections of rock. [1]

James Taylor re-equipped the route in 2021:

Just a historical note. It has far fewer pegs now than it ever did. I replaced the top cluster of 4 pegs with two new ones and the cluster of 3 pegs that were just below that with 2 new ones. All the old pegs are in my mantlepiece. So 7 pegs were replaced with 4, two pairs of two, this was done in 2021 and now it's common to have the pairs equalised. I didn't replace the 5 lower pegs, 2 of which have now come out. The lower pegs are next to good gear and inconsequential to the route, just artifacts of Twid. [2]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2026/07/mission_impossible_the_most_possible_e9_in_the_uk-74180

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/mission_impossible_the_most_possible_e9_in_the_uk-791770?v=1#x10157604

Contributors
85 contributions since 3rd January 2021.
15 contributions since 4th July 2026.
TdG
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Ascents

16 successful ascents recorded.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Neil Carson Lead | worked 23rd Jul 1997
First ascent.
Second ascent. Around 2 sessions.
Third ascent.

I'd say this is the first route I have done which genuinely felt E9, purely for the physical difficulty (8a+/b). A lot of the others are kind of hovering on the border.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/third_ascent_of_mission_impossible_e9_7a_for_oli_grounsell-70520

Hazel Findlay Lead | worked 22nd Sep 2020
First female ascent.
Alex Hall Lead | worked 30th Jul 2024
Alex Moore Lead | worked 18th May 2025
5 sessions.
Around 40 sessions.
Alex Morris Lead | worked 12th May 2026
Tom Pearce Lead | worked 3rd Jul 2026