The Prow | 8A Boulder problem at Kyloe-In-The-Woods

UKClimbing.com
Highball.

There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. Andy Earl climbed a line very close to the arete, Dan Varian and Will Bosi ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and Franco Cookson moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation Varian the Librarian.

Regarding the grade, Andy Earl didn't offer a grade and Steve Crowe wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.

References

[1] Franco Cookson discusses the controversy around the line on UKClimbing.com, 9th Feb 2022 https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240

[2] On The Edge 128, page 18

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Andy Earl
View this post on Instagram

Added at 22:02 on 05 February 2022
Dan Varian
Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
Dan Varian
Added at 17:01 on 13 January 2021
Will Bosi
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
Franco Cookson
View this post on Instagram

Added at 17:02 on 05 February 2022
Franco Cookson
Added at 20:02 on 05 February 2022

Ascents

5 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Andy Earl Solo | worked Apr 2003
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/
Dan Varian Boulder | worked Nov 2011
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ

[3] https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206
Ned Feehally Boulder | worked Nov 2011
Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897

[2] https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s
Will Bosi Boulder | worked 30th Jul 2017

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/
Franco Cookson Boulder | worked 4th Feb 2022

Unlike with The Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I