| Date | Time | User | Type | Name | Attribute | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 8th April 2024 | 08:57:16 | remus | ascent | Andy Earl | ascent_dt_end | |
|
Before
2004-01-01
After
2003-05-01
|
|||||||
| 2 | 8th April 2024 | 08:57:16 | remus | ascent | Andy Earl | ascent_dt_start | |
|
Before
2003-01-01
After
2003-04-01
|
|||||||
| 3 | 8th April 2024 | 08:57:16 | remus | ascent | Andy Earl | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 4 | 8th April 2024 | 08:57:16 | remus | ascent | Andy Earl | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-[https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/)
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/)
|
|||||||
| 5 | 18th March 2024 | 20:50:24 | remus | ascent | Will Bosi | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1 +1,3 @@
-[https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/)
+### References
+
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/](https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/)
|
|||||||
| 6 | 18th March 2024 | 20:50:24 | remus | ascent | Will Bosi | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/">https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/">https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKjb9tg7IU/</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 7 | 12th December 2023 | 19:04:55 | remus | ascent | Ned Feehally | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897</a></p>
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s">https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s">https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 8 | 12th December 2023 | 19:04:55 | remus | ascent | Ned Feehally | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[2] [https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,5 @@
-[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
+### References
-[https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
+[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
+
+[2] [https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
|
|||||||
| 9 | 12th December 2023 | 19:04:31 | remus | ascent | Franco Cookson | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>Unlike with <a href="/climb/2618/the-young">The Young</a>, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 10 | 12th December 2023 | 19:04:31 | remus | ascent | Franco Cookson | notes | |
|
Before
> Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/)
[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I)
After
> Unlike with [The Young](/climb/2618/the-young), which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/)
[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-> Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
+> Unlike with [The Young](/climb/2618/the-young), which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
### References
|
|||||||
| 11 | 12th December 2023 | 19:03:00 | remus | ascent | Dan Varian | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ</a></p>
After
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ</a></p>
<p>[3] <a href="https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206">https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 12 | 12th December 2023 | 19:03:00 | remus | ascent | Dan Varian | notes | |
|
Before
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ)
After
### References
[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ)
[3] [https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206](https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,3 +1,7 @@
-[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
+### References
-[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ)
+[1] [https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
+
+[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meYWJdX-qhQ)
+
+[3] [https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206](https://youtu.be/6Pd6vNv0etg?si=3suTo-_BcE9dNJA5&t=1206)
|
|||||||
| 13 | 19th November 2023 | 16:06:29 | remus | - | - | notes | |
|
Before
There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) climbed a line very close to the arete, [Dan Varian](/climber/255/dan-varian) and [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation [Varian the Librarian](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343).
Regarding the grade, [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) didn't offer a grade and [Steve Crowe](/climber/985/steve-crowe) wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.
### References
[1] [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) discusses the controversy around the line on [UKClimbing.com](UKClimbing.com), 9th Feb 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240)
After
There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) climbed a line very close to the arete, [Dan Varian](/climber/255/dan-varian) and [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation [Varian the Librarian](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343).
Regarding the grade, [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) didn't offer a grade and [Steve Crowe](/climber/985/steve-crowe) wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.
### References
[1] [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) discusses the controversy around the line on [UKClimbing.com](UKClimbing.com), 9th Feb 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240)
[2] *On The Edge 128*, page 18
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -4,4 +4,6 @@
### References
-[1] [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) discusses the controversy around the line on [UKClimbing.com](UKClimbing.com), 9th Feb 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240)
+[1] [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) discusses the controversy around the line on [UKClimbing.com](UKClimbing.com), 9th Feb 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240)
+
+[2] *On The Edge 128*, page 18
|
|||||||
| 14 | 19th November 2023 | 16:06:29 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> climbed a line very close to the arete, <a href="/climber/255/dan-varian">Dan Varian</a> and <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343">Varian the Librarian</a>.</p>
<p>Regarding the grade, <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> didn't offer a grade and <a href="/climber/985/steve-crowe">Steve Crowe</a> wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> discusses the controversy around the line on <a href="UKClimbing.com">UKClimbing.com</a>, 9th Feb 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240</a></p>
After
<p>There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> climbed a line very close to the arete, <a href="/climber/255/dan-varian">Dan Varian</a> and <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343">Varian the Librarian</a>.</p>
<p>Regarding the grade, <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> didn't offer a grade and <a href="/climber/985/steve-crowe">Steve Crowe</a> wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> discusses the controversy around the line on <a href="UKClimbing.com">UKClimbing.com</a>, 9th Feb 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240</a></p>
<p>[2] <em>On The Edge 128</em>, page 18</p>
|
|||||||
| 15 | 19th November 2023 | 11:41:40 | remus | ascent | Franco Cookson | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<blockquote>
<p>Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.</p>
</blockquote>
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I</a></p>
After
<blockquote>
<p>Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.</p>
</blockquote>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/</a></p>
<p>[2] <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 16 | 19th November 2023 | 11:41:40 | remus | ascent | Franco Cookson | notes | |
|
Before
> Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
[https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I)
After
> Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
### References
[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/)
[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,5 +1,7 @@
> Unlike with the Young, which was a ground up 'in the first degree' (ie no ab), I cheated a bit on this one and went for the ab inspection, as the right wall needed a proper clean and I couldn't be bothered trying to get someone else to clean it (they always clean the wrong bits 😂). I'm glad I did, as it made the top moves more enjoyable and, as I also hadn't watched a video of anyone else doing it for ages, I inadvertently found a better sequence for me, taking the crux hold with my left, rather than right, avoiding some of the overhang and getting to use a load of monos! Happy days! 😁😁😁 Unfortunately the sequence I'd spied on ab didn't work as a foothold broke as soon as I tried it. But with a bit more creativity, one failed attempt at a jump, and some extreme human pyramid brushing, some new beta was found.
-[https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/)
+### References
-[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I)
+[1] [https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/](https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/)
+
+[2] [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I)
|
|||||||
| 17 | 19th November 2023 | 11:41:14 | remus | ascent | Ned Feehally | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>Third ascent.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897</a></p>
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s">https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s</a></p>
After
<p><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897">https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897</a></p>
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s">https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s</a></p>
|
|||||||
| 18 | 19th November 2023 | 11:41:14 | remus | ascent | Ned Feehally | notes | |
|
Before
Third ascent.
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
After
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,5 +1,3 @@
-Third ascent.
-
[https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897](https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2011/11/dan_and_ned_-_the_prow_e9_and_black_triage-64897)
[https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s](https://vimeo.com/116871088#t=480s)
|
|||||||
| 19 | 19th November 2023 | 11:40:37 | remus | - | - | notes | |
|
Before
There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) climbed a line very close to the arete, [Dan Varian](/climber/255/dan-varian) and [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) moved on to the right hand face earlier still avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation [Varian the Librarian](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343).
Regarding the grade, [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) didn't offer a grade and [Steve Crowe](/climber/985/steve-crowe) wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.
### References
[1] [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) discusses the controversy around the line on [UKClimbing.com](UKClimbing.com), 9th Feb 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240)
After
There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) climbed a line very close to the arete, [Dan Varian](/climber/255/dan-varian) and [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation [Varian the Librarian](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343).
Regarding the grade, [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) didn't offer a grade and [Steve Crowe](/climber/985/steve-crowe) wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.
### References
[1] [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) discusses the controversy around the line on [UKClimbing.com](UKClimbing.com), 9th Feb 2022 [https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240](https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240)
Diff
--- before
+++ after
@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
-There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) climbed a line very close to the arete, [Dan Varian](/climber/255/dan-varian) and [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) moved on to the right hand face earlier still avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation [Varian the Librarian](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343).
+There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) climbed a line very close to the arete, [Dan Varian](/climber/255/dan-varian) and [Will Bosi](/climber/132/will-bosi) ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and [Franco Cookson](/climber/570/franco-cookson) moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation [Varian the Librarian](https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343).
Regarding the grade, [Andy Earl](/climber/268/andy-earl) didn't offer a grade and [Steve Crowe](/climber/985/steve-crowe) wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.
|
|||||||
| 20 | 19th November 2023 | 11:40:37 | remus | - | - | notes_pretty | |
|
Before
<p>There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> climbed a line very close to the arete, <a href="/climber/255/dan-varian">Dan Varian</a> and <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> moved on to the right hand face earlier still avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343">Varian the Librarian</a>.</p>
<p>Regarding the grade, <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> didn't offer a grade and <a href="/climber/985/steve-crowe">Steve Crowe</a> wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> discusses the controversy around the line on <a href="UKClimbing.com">UKClimbing.com</a>, 9th Feb 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240</a></p>
After
<p>There is some variation in the line taken by each of the ascenionists so far. <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> climbed a line very close to the arete, <a href="/climber/255/dan-varian">Dan Varian</a> and <a href="/climber/132/will-bosi">Will Bosi</a> ended up slightly more on the right face at the top and <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> moved on to the right hand face earlier still, avoiding a couple of moves up the prow [1]. Franco amusingly named his variation <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/kyloe-in-the-woods_kyloe-in-838/varian_the_librarian-648343">Varian the Librarian</a>.</p>
<p>Regarding the grade, <a href="/climber/268/andy-earl">Andy Earl</a> didn't offer a grade and <a href="/climber/985/steve-crowe">Steve Crowe</a> wrote it up for the guidebook as E9 7a. It is now more commonly climbed above a big pile of pads at ~8A.</p>
<h3>References</h3>
<p>[1] <a href="/climber/570/franco-cookson">Franco Cookson</a> discusses the controversy around the line on <a href="UKClimbing.com">UKClimbing.com</a>, 9th Feb 2022 <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240">https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/opinions/the_blurry_line_-_when_does_a_sequence_become_a_line-14240</a></p>
|
|||||||