Dinas Cromlech

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The second of the three big corners of Dinas Cromlech to be climbed. Prone to dampness and vegetation, it was cleaned from abseil prior to the first ascent, an unusual practice for the time.

Operation Garden was commenced on Ivy Sepulchre, PJRH abseiling down complete with trowel etc. The top 60' were found to be climbable, involving an all-in wrestling match with a rotten holly tree which, despite its age, still knows how to deal with would-be climbers.

References

[1] https://climbing-history.org/library/7288/llanberis-pass

In Don's later years he and Joe Brown went back to repeat the route together.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-m_P_RzrQu4.

I led the first pitch and took a stance just above the holly tree and hung onto slings attached to poor spikes sticking out of the rock. This was the first stance in slings that we had taken. The position on the face was very sensational and frightening. I brought up Don [Whillans] and he was flabbergasted. "Christ this is a gripping place" he muttered hoarsely. Neither of us seemed able to move. Then it started to rain...All the way up little flakes of rock broke off when we pulled or stood on them. [1]

References

[1] Mountain Issue 104, page 16

Felt to be the hardest route in the Llanberis Pass at the time of the first ascent. Graded Exceptionally Severe.

References

[1] https://climbing-history.org/library/7293/llanberis

"Cunning chockstoning on the first ascent"

References

[1] https://climbing-history.org/library/7288/llanberis-pass

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/ron_moseley_and_left_wall-127598

Ken Wilson [?]:

After two abseil inspections to clean loose rock and study the line, Livesey linked up an intricate series of holds and ledges, to gain the traverse ledge of the girdle, without aid either for resting or progress. The prospect of unprotected and fierce climbing ahead stopped him at this point and, after tying off his rope, he soloed off up Cemetery Gates to have a further inspection from a rope, and to try two alternatives with jumar protection. Returning to the ledge, he pulled down the rope and finished the route, although the chosen alternative proved more difficult and sustained than expected. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 13 /library/11056/mountain-37

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WlDugUn5cQ

[2] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115862996537253&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863439870542&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863403203879&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=115863383203881&set=a.115862679870618

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/04/new_12-skyhook_e9_by_james_mchaffie_house_of_talons-70418

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn6aWHqNKqz/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DW6qWn3kZDh/