Climbs

Link-up of Freeblast (Salathe) + Muir Wall + 3 linking pitches + The Nose from Camp 4 to the summit.

A bold E6 with 3 bolts. Retro-bolted by Dave Cuthbertson in 1995.

Originally given 7c+ but widely considered to be 8a.

Originally a trad route climbed on glued pegs. These have now been replaced with some bolts. Originally the bolts were going to replace the pegs on a like for like basis, but ended up in a spaced configuration to maintain a trad feel without it requiring double ropes to climb.

Kristian Clemmow:

It was Jerry [Moffatt] who was keen for his route to be re-equipped as no one seems to have done it in years. Initially Haydn drilled some holes for resin bolts directly next to the old pegs but never finished the job.

Verbal Abuse was climbed with twin ropes with a baby bouncer fall at the crux. This would have involved a traverse or a down climb to set up so I suggested to Jerry putting the bolts at 180° to the original peg placements but in a straight line so people could use a single rope. You'd still get a similar experience that he wanted to be maintained. There is nothing stopping you stick clipping the first and extending the draws if you wish. It's a compromise. No doubt someone will add a few more bolts it the future.

A diminutive put beguiling mantel problem from Johnny Dawes. Dawes mantled the sloping shelf, pressing it out directly; others have used heels, pebbles or other holds to try and avoid the eye-popping move.

Some commentary from Dawes on this video: What's the world's hardest mantle?

References

[1] https://youtu.be/IGuGjtuUiI0?t=152

References

[1] [https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light](https://climbing-history.org/library/8192/comment-on-the-two-ascents-of-the-wall-of-morning-light)