Climbs

L'Autre Toit roof linkup at Cul de Chien.

The first 8a on slate, and one of the early 8as in the UK alongside Jerry Moffatt's Masterclass and Ben Moon's Statement of Youth.

Originally E7, but a candidate for the UK's first E8, according to second ascentionist Nick Dixon. Now rated E8 in the 2025 Llanberis guide, the route is said to contain 7c/+ climbing in a very serious position. An astounding ascent for 1984, climbed after a cursory abseil inspection by John Redhead. [1]

Dave Towse:

Clipped into the belay bolt, I watched Johnny as the evening quickly slipped away. He couldn't seem to commit himself to the move above the poor peg, so l shouted up some encouragement. He went for it, snatching the creaking flake above, the crucial stopper 1 in his mouth. In the failing light he couldn't locate the placement. In extremis, he screamed, "You've let me down Dave you bastard, you've let me down." Like some T.V. game, macabre in concept, I played with Johnny's life, and talked his hand to the small hole for the runner. [2]

References

[1] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind

[2] Clogwyn Du'r Arddu Guidebook, 2004

[2] https://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/clogwyn-duarddu-margins-of-the-mind

Apparently named because the route is between Psycho, Adrenaline Rush and Little Cenotaph, and PAL was a dogfood at the time which contained marrowbone jelly. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/boulder-problem-names-climbing-history.34883/post-721689

The first 9a+ in Japan.

Originally established with four bolt runners and a bolted belay. These were later removed and the climb re-led in a single pitch by Gary Gibson.