Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Kunne vært verre Sport route 8c 4
L'Abbé Résina Boulder problem 7C 4

The first 7C in the forest.

L’Abbé Résina is said to be the original name, however it appears in Jacky Godoffe's 1993 guide as just La Bérézina. A typical Bleausard word-play, La Bérézina in French is a synonym for complete disaster or catastrophic failure, referring to the disastrous retreat of Napoleon’s army from Russia, where huge losses occurred crossing the river Berezina – a name which continues the theme of the neighbouring Le Carnage (7B+). L’Abbé Résina meanwhile, translates roughly as 'The Abbot of Resin', no doubt referring to the 'pof' pine resin product widely used at the time to improve stickiness on Fontainebleau's slopey holds.

La Castagne Sport route 9a+ 4
Lada Miestä Kuljettaa Boulder problem 8B 4
La Fiesta de los Metallos Sport route 8b 4
La Force Traverse 9a 4
La Grosse Tarlouze Boulder problem 8C 4
La Merveille Boulder problem 8A+ 4

The steep prow on Le Bloc aux Mille Visages was for many years a last great problem, before Marc Le Menestrel succeeded in 1999.

A right hand finish had previously been climbed by Philippe Le Denmat c.1998, rocking onto the slab at 8A.

In 2002, a key right hand hold broke, bumping the climb up to 8A+. (1)

References

[1] https://fontainebleaupassion.blogspot.com/2014/04/la-merveille-un-bloc-culte.html

La Novena Puerta Sport route 8c+ 4
La Rage de Vivre Sport route 8b+ 4

The first 8b+ in France and one of the earliest 8b+s in the world.

Las Meninas R2 Sport route 9a+ 4

Approximately 9a in to 8b+.

La Soucoupe Boulder problem 8B 4

Chironico

Le Bidule Sport route 8a+ 4

The first 8a+ in France.

Le Cadafist Sport route 9a 4
Legacy Sport route 9a 4

There was some controversy around the first ascent as Fred Nicole had been trying the line for several years before Giuliano Cameroni asked to try it and shortly afterwards made the first ascent.

References

[1] https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/fred-nicole-and-giuliano-cameroni-are-celebrating-the-hardest-climbing-route-in-south-africa-legacy-9a/

Les Mains Sales Sport route 8b 4
Light Weight Baby Sport route 8c+ 4
Living in Oxford Trad climb E7 4
L'Odi Social Sport route 8c+ 4

The first 8c+ in Siurana.

Lost Generation Boulder problem 8B+ 4

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