Climbs

L'Autre Toit roof linkup at Cul de Chien.

The first 8a on slate, and one of the early 8as in the UK alongside Jerry Moffatt's Masterclass and Ben Moon's Statement of Youth.

A candidate for the UK's first E8 according to second ascentionist Nick Dixon.

Apparently named because the route is between Psycho, Adrenaline Rush and Little Cenotaph, and PAL was a dogfood at the time which contained marrowbone jelly. [1]

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/boulder-problem-names-climbing-history.34883/post-721689

Originally established with four bolt runners and a bolted belay. These were later removed and the climb re-led in a single pitch by Gary Gibson.

Previously tried by Daniel Woods before Shawn Raboutou made the first ascent. Also tried extensively by Drew Ruana who, at the time of writing, had put 75 sessions in to it.

Drew Ruana:

To me it breaks down into a 8 move v15/16 that’s on nasty crimps and underclings that feel like they’re gonna rip your pulley. There’s one right hand throw move to where the 14 starts that’s one of the hardest moves I’ve ever done and you basically have to climb v13/14 into a hard v12+ single move. Then do a bunch of foot moves and weird cut to establish on the 14. From there the 14 stand is guarding the top- you’ve already done a fucked up hard boulder (took me more days to link the sit than any other v15 and most v16s have taken me) into a nasty series undercling thrutches with bad feet. The 14 is wireable but having the energy to own those underclings at the end of basically climbing v17 is hard. To me this felt like a solid step up from rotsw [Return of the Sleepwalker], if rotsw had 1-2 more crux moves it’d be comparable I think. [1]

The problem was discovered by Chad Greedy. He gave it the working name partly after his pet chameleon, Megatron, who died shortly after he found the problem. [4]

References

[1] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/yw2uct/comment/iwi7mfx/

Originally called End All. 85 holes drilled on the first ascent, a much smaller number than on the nearby Wall of Early Morning Light (A3) climbed three years previously. Now a popular classic route.

Some lower pitches are free climbed by The Dawn Wall.

References

[1] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197414804

One of the first 8c+s in Spain.