Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Moonlight Buttress Trad climb E6 7

Originally graded 5.13b, the route is currently 5.12b; the route continues to be a popular aid route, which has enlarged cracks and holds in the soft sandstone.

Andy Moles:

The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928

[2] Bird, Bryan. Zion Climbing. United States: SuperTopo, 2009.
Moonstruck Boulder problem 8B 7
Mortal Immortal Boulder problem 8B+ 7
New Dimensions Trad climb E4 7

The first 5.11 in Yosemite.
No Pain No Gain Sport route 9a+ 7
Nuclear Base Boulder problem 8B+ 7
Olwen Trad climb E9 7

In Welsh mythology Olwen is the goddess of the sun.
On the Books Boulder problem 8B+ 7
Overnite Sensation Sport route 8a+ 7
Pachamama Sport route 9a+ 7
Pool of Bethesda (Malc's Start) Boulder problem 8B 7

The first 8B in Wales.
Pornographie Sport route 9a 7
Poseidon's Kiss Deep water solo 8c 7
Powerplant Sport route 8a 7
Pump Fiction Sport route 8b+ 7

One of the hardest at the time. Norway
Railway Boulder problem 8C 7
Regular Northwest Face Trad climb HVS 7
Reservoir Dogs Trad climb E8 7

The route lost a 'crucial' pebble in the late '90s and didn't see further ascents until 2008.
Scarface Sport route 8b+ 7

The first 14a/8b+ established by an American (Scott Franklin) in the US. There is debate about the grade with some suggesting 8b (or 13d).

See also Scott Cosgrove's ascent of New Deal and Franklin's own Planet Claire, both redpointed not long before Scarface.
Seven Boulder problem 8B+ 7

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/lucas-uchida-makes-first-ascent-of-wild-squamish-v14/

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