New Deal | 8b+ Sport route


Retrospectively recognised as the first 5.14 (8b+) established by an American. Chopped by John Bachar as some of the bolts were placed on rappel but subsequently rebolted.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/joshua-tree-scott-cosgrove-visionary-new-deal.html

Contributors
duncancritchley
25 contributions since 10th November 2025.

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Ascents

1 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Scott Cosgrove Lead | worked 31st Jan 1988
First ascent.

Graded 13d at the time as Cosgrove had not yet climbed 5.14.

"It took me somewhere like 18 days to do it, I think, I had never climb a 14a and the grade did not exist in California, but a 14a Euro-climber tried and failed on the line, shortly after my red-point. He later traveled to Smith Rock and climbed, JB Tribout, To Bolt, or Not to Be, very quickly. So, I would say that Alan [Moore]'s rating should stand, as at the time I really didn't know what 13d or 14a was, just that it was damn hard for me and I had to give it a number.

I was in school, guiding full time and training, I had no time or money to go on the road and repeat other 14a, but spent the time climbing routes close to home. I named the climb after FDR, plan to put America back to work in the Great Depression, but that metaphor was lost on the many rap bolt haters, who thought I was rubbing it in their face. I felt the small compromise in ethic would lead to higher numbers." (Scott Cosgrove in 2013, after the second ascent)