Climbs

A counter line to Impact Day. About 8b+ with a very spicy runout.

A project of Ron Kauk's before he suffered an injury which stopped him trying the line. Beth Rodden then invested substantial time and energy in to the line before making the first ascent in 2008. The line then waited an incredible 10 years before receiving a second ascent from Carlo Traversi.

The peak of old school, vert micro crimping? One of the hardest problems in the UK when it was established and rarely repeated to this day.

Originally 5.13b, currently 5.12c.

Andy Moles:

The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928

Adam originally suggested 9b/+ but Sébastien Bouin suggested a rare upgrade after his ascent.

8b/+ depending on how well you fit the thin hands section.