Originally 5.13b, currently 5.12c
The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place.(1)
[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928
[2] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106138026/the-moonlight-buttress-free
5 recorded ascents.
| Climber | Style | Ascent Date | Suggested Grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mike Weiss | Alternate Leads | worked | 1971 | |
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First ascent. With some points of aid.
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| Jeff Lowe | Alternate Leads | worked | 1971 | HVS |
|
First ascent. With some points of aid.
5.8 C1 References[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105717718/the-moonlight-buttress-clean-aid |
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| Jonny Woodward | Alternate Leads | worked | 1992 | |
|
First free ascent.
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| Peter Croft | Alternate Leads | worked | 1992 | E7 |
|
First free ascent.
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| Alex Honnold | Solo | worked | 2008 | |