Toru Nakajima

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References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8zMVqZdDyA

The first re-ascent since one of the crucial crux holds broke.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb05hVJvDgh/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb06l7_P08o/

[3] https://vimeo.com/760144758

It feels harder than Lucid Dreaming V15 in Bishop, US, , which is kinda similar, but then again, who's to say if a 3-move V16 is a thing? While trying this challenge, I often thought back to my 20 days on Emotion 10 years ago. Just like anything else, looking back helps you get the full picture. Hopely someday I will know about this problem. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C4CKIiOyueH/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DDtIX0VyP7a/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/12/tokoyo_8c_by_toru_nakajima-67698

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/02/the_big_island_8c_for_toru_nakajima-67863

Asagimadara is such an impressive line. It's located on a big boulder, and independent of any other problem. You start standing with a three finger pocket and a crimp. The first five moves are the crux of this problem and the second move to a far pocket is especially hard for me. After the crux, the next eight moves to a small ledge are easier, but since I tried it ground up, I couldn't predict holds and movement I should do. Actually, holds were dirty and I fell from this section two times. The top out is very easy, but it was also dirty and I felt nervous.

I took five days to climb this problem. Tokio Muroi made the first ascent of this amazing problem without boulderingpads.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2013/03/updatedtoru_nakajima_repeats_asagimadara_f8c+-67932

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/03/the_story_of_2_worlds_8c_by_toru_nakajima-68776

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oPBOfakyMg

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/02/lucid_dreaming_f8c_by_toru_nakajima-70949

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CM3pLk0jQuI/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CoUQ3LKyfjZ/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CzNvP38y2CD/

References

[1] https://www.climbing-net.com/news/%E4%B8%AD%E5%B6%8B%E5%BE%B9%E3%80%81the-story-of-two-worldsv15%E5%AE%8C%E7%99%BB/

References

[1] https://www.climbing-net.com/news/%E4%B8%AD%E5%B6%8B%E5%BE%B9%E3%80%81the-story-of-two-worldsv15%E5%AE%8C%E7%99%BB/

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/DIMGCKEyjz5/

Aged 14

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/11/4th_ascent_of_bansousha_8b_slab-54660

[2] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/12/toru_nakajima-67672

[3] https://micki-pedia.com/list-of-bansousya.html

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2012/12/toru_nakajima-67672

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CYBzQrCF3NR/

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/japanese_junior_hits_the_grit-48849

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/elm-street-in-70-deg-heat.12322/#post-214534

Aged 15, first trip on the grit!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/08/japanese_junior_-_new_burbage_e9-48913

[2] https://youtu.be/ZueSwJia7PE?t=60

With direct start. The same day as leading Meshuga!

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/japanese_climbers_2_e9s_in_a_day-369545

Same day as Parthian Shot (Pre 2011 Break) with a direct start. Aged 15.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/japanese_climbers_2_e9s_in_a_day-369545

References

[1] https://www.beyondtheedge.co.uk/alex-in-the-100th-issue-of-rock-snow-and-the-account-of-toru-nakajima/