Bachar-Yerian | E6 Trad climb at Medlicott Dome

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First ascent.

First ascent.

Reaching the top was like waking out of a big dream in the middle of the afternoon, blinking in the unexpectedness of continued daylight. Dave [Yerian] looked as disoriented as I felt. In a self-deprecating way, we decided to call our line the Bachar-Yerian, an echo of grander routes such as the Chouinard-Herbert or the Steck-Salathé. We’d tried, in our own fashion, to be true to their spirit. In the end, I’d only placed thirteen bolts on the whole route: four from hooks, and the rest from no-hands stances including six for belays. Some people might criticize my use of aid, but I’d never intended to call it a free route–just to keep it as free as I could. Over and over I’d felt my whole life come down to one small move, one crystal–and within those tiny spaces and moments, I’d tried to get a measure of myself. Dave, meanwhile, watching me struggle, had stayed poised at each moment to protect me, despite the exposure that whirled about him and the weariness of his long-sustained fear. [1]

References

[1] https://alpinist.com/first-ascent/bachar-yerian/

[2] https://open.spotify.com/episode/7ix0YBwiTjj7ilO83xpGez?

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://alpinist.com/first-ascent/bachar-yerian/

Third ascent. With Kurt Smith.

Third ascent. With Ed Barry.

now this route brings back some good and bad memories... ed barry and i went to do the 3rd ascent. i lead the first, he lead the second and starting down climbing right below the first real bolt on 2nd pitch, (45 above the belay). a knob broke and he fell, right for my head, i moved right and he hit my shoulder and went another 40 ft before i caught him. he got to the belay pasty white! "I'm not going back up there man" was all he could say.. we waited a little while for the adrenaline to subside and then i decided to give the second pitch a try because i did not want to come back and lead that first pitch again! ed snapped out of his funk and went and sent the pitch. I broke a hold 40 above a bolt on the 3rd but hung on and made it to the horizontial and the cam placement that i really was happy to get. Then there are two more pitches of funky scary climbing to the summit. Most people rap after the third and i say that's bull shit! you have to do the whole route to call it a send!

It is an amazing line, bolts are far away and the climbing is COMMITTING! LIKE CLIMBING USED TO BE!

so go for it and realize you are climbing more than just a route, you are climbing a vision of the past that required first ascentionist's to have guts to get the glory..!

enjoy and yes there are new bolts there so no more 1/4 bolts to get you puckered... [1]

References

[1] http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=375380

References

[1] https://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgz7zi

After onsighting the route while clipping the bolts George came back to try and climb the line on natural gear only. However after getting high on the route he was sketching and decided to clip a bolt. [1]

References

[1] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1045687/Bachar-Yerian-timelinep-who-did-which-ascent-and-when#:~:text=british%20headpointer%20tries%20bachar-yerian%20on%20natural%20gear

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcg5arcKDCo