Bachar-Yerian | E6 Trad climb at Medlicott Dome

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First ascent.

First ascent.

Reaching the top was like waking out of a big dream in the middle of the afternoon, blinking in the unexpectedness of continued daylight. Dave [Yerian] looked as disoriented as I felt. In a self-deprecating way, we decided to call our line the Bachar-Yerian, an echo of grander routes such as the Chouinard-Herbert or the Steck-Salathé. We’d tried, in our own fashion, to be true to their spirit. In the end, I’d only placed thirteen bolts on the whole route: four from hooks, and the rest from no-hands stances including six for belays. Some people might criticize my use of aid, but I’d never intended to call it a free route–just to keep it as free as I could. Over and over I’d felt my whole life come down to one small move, one crystal–and within those tiny spaces and moments, I’d tried to get a measure of myself. Dave, meanwhile, watching me struggle, had stayed poised at each moment to protect me, despite the exposure that whirled about him and the weariness of his long-sustained fear. [1]

References

[1] https://alpinist.com/first-ascent/bachar-yerian/

Second ascent.

References

[1] https://alpinist.com/first-ascent/bachar-yerian/

Third ascent.

References

[1] https://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgz7zi

After onsighting the route while clipping the bolts George came back to try and climb the line on natural gear only. However after getting high on the route he was sketching and decided to clip a bolt. [1]

References

[1] http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1045687/Bachar-Yerian-timelinep-who-did-which-ascent-and-when#:~:text=british%20headpointer%20tries%20bachar-yerian%20on%20natural%20gear

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcg5arcKDCo