Climbs

One of the first 8b+s in the world.

One of the first sport routes in the UK to be climbed in 'red point' style, where the moves were practised before the final ascent. Prior to this routes were more typically climbed onsight or in yoyo style where pre-practicing the moves wasn't allowed.

Originally given E7 7a. Early on the lip of a pocket on the route fell off making the route harder. Jerry Moffatt attempted to repair the hold but the repair quickly failed. Jerry re-climbed it with the pocket in the worse state. Around the same time Mark Pretty also applied some sika to the back of the pocket to try and reduce seepage.

The name comes from the infamous chipped pockets that make the problem possible.

Initially given 8B.

Originally climbed as a trad route at ~E7.

Very morpho. 8B if you are tall enough to span the first move, otherwise you have to dyno which is worth 8B+.

Originally thought to be 8B/+. A 'crucial' side pull broke after the first ascent but it was later re-climbed without the side pull.

Originally climbed with no pads and a single ball nut for protection. James gave it E10, believing any fall would involve hitting the ground. Subsequent ascents tested the ball nut (above pads) and found it to be better than expected with the ball nut holding around 20 falls. Based on this, grades around E7 to E8 were suggested.

Due to the falls the quality of the placement deteriorated, with Jordan Buys ripping the gear in a fall from high on the route. It is not clear how reliable the placement currently is. [1]

Now usually climbed as a highball above a big pile of pads.

References

[1] https://johnroberts.me/outdoors/2011/11/the-promise-is-it-finally-the-end-of-the-affair/

Sirevåg, Norway

Originally climbed from a slightly higher start and called 'Ummagumma', Klem Loskot added the lower start a week later.

Originally climbed without knee bars and given 8C, now considered to be 8B.