Attraverso il Pesce | E6/7b+ Multi-pitch at Marmolada

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First ascent.

Some aid was used.

First ascent.

Some aid was used.

The year was 1983, the climbers were Heinz Mariacher, Luisa Iovane, Roberto Bassi and Maurizio Zanolla, alias Manolo, attempting the first repeat of what is, and will always be, one of the historic climbs in the Dolomites. Not merely a reference route in terms of difficulty, but also one of the most beautiful of all. What happened next is common knowledge: while threatening clouds darkened the sky, Manolo set off to tackle one of the most difficult and sketchy sections of the route. Protecting himself proved impossible, apart from a single, dubious peg. Yet Manolo continued, upwards, ever upwards, further and further away from that "safety" point. Until darkness set in. "It’s a very strange situation" is what he seems to have uttered… He attempted to place an improbable peg, but the hammer slipped from his grasp and disappeared into the immense void. He couldn't see a single thing, neither hand nor footholds. He was utterly alone. Wrapped in the pitch-black, infinite abyss. The situation, more than "strange", seemed past the point of no return. Until, after un undefined amount of time that seemed like eternity, Manolo reappeared at the belay. He’d used a small cliff-hook to abseil back down to his partners… an absolutely extreme solution, not be imitated! The scene was illuminated by the light of a small candle… and this gave way to the long series of abseils that put an end to this adventure. [1]

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/manolo-weg-durch-den-fisch-climbing-the-marmolada-fish-route-thirty-years-later.html

With Bruno Pederiva.

First free ascent.

With Heinz Mariacher.

First free ascent.

One of the greatest solo ascents of all time.

Free solos of this sort can't be programmed beforehand - they arrive all of a sudden. You then prepare your mind and when you feel that right feeling you manage to carry out your dream. I climb solos exclusively for myself, to live out my dreams. I love the south Face of the Marmolada and I feel really at ease there. I didn't think that I'd create a feat, this ascent is simply the result of my deepest dreams and feelings. Any other reasons would be far too unimportant.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/hansjarg-auer-free-solo-attraverso-il-pesce-in-marmolada.html

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OgB0uRz6RQ

[3] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cc78S55jOor/

With Ted Kingsnorth.

References

[1] https://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2022/04/attraverso-il-pesce.html

With Ben Heason.

References

[1] https://tedkingsnorth.blogspot.com/2022/04/attraverso-il-pesce.html

First female ascent.

References

[1] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/federica-mingolla-climbs-the-marmolada-fish-route-interview-after-the-first-female-all-lead-ascent.html