Climbs

Formerly an aid line it was later freed by Will Stanhope and Matt Segal.

In 2022 the Snowpatch Spire suffered a huge rockfall which completely destroyed the route [1].

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/massive-snowpatch-spire-rockfall-famous-climbs-destroyed/

A 14m "highball" boulder problem. Considered to be around 7C+ as a boulder problem or 8a+/b as a sport grade.

400m.

Originally graded E9 but subsequently downgraded to E8 by Robin Barker after the second ascent. Purportedly has some of the hardest moves on a trad route in the UK, and a distinct lack of repeats has helped cement this reputation.

A lot of history associated with this climb. From Kevin Jorgeson's blog

It is a well known fact that the Buttermilks of Bishop, CA are known for their highballs. It only takes one visit, or one glance at a photograph, to realize how big the granite boulders are and how unique the geology is. However, had it not been for the events of the mid to late 1980's, and a climb called Transporter Room, the Buttermilks may be known for the country's shortest sport climbs instead.

First put up by Helmut Kiene on toprope in the late 70s. FA Dale Bard, late 70s. Bard put five bolts in the face so that his girlfriend at the time, Bobbi Bensman, could lead it. Tommy Herbert came and chopped the bolts a few days later. Because of this, Tom decided against putting bolts in his neighbouring toprope project, Ambrosia (8A), and so Bishop became the highball capital of the US it is known as today.

Named after a friend of the FA who committed suicide.

References

[1] https://give.ubc.ca/memorial/travis-duane-foster/

Perhaps the physically hardest trad route in the world when it was first climbed by Jacopo Larcher in March 2019. He did not grade the route.

Larcher:

“Tribe” (E none)

I’ve never invested so much time in a route before and I believe it’s the hardest I’ve done so far, but I don’t want to reduce it to a number. It wouldn’t make any sense to me. It seems like nowadays grades are the most important things in climbing and everything else gets forgotten...but at the end of the day, what we will remember is the experience, not a number.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BvZjURwgm4T/

Named after Foster's ill-fated encounter with Ulysses' Bow the next day