Tom Egan Memorial Route | 8c Multi-pitch

TheCrag.com

13 pitches.
🚫 This is currently unclimbable. Typically this is because the climb existed in some state but then changed significantly (e.g. by losing holds) and is now considered a different climb.

Formerly an aid line it was later freed by Will Stanhope and Matt Segal.

In 2022 the Snowpatch Spire suffered a huge rockfall which completely destroyed the route [1].

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/massive-snowpatch-spire-rockfall-famous-climbs-destroyed/

Contributors: remus

Pics + Vids

Will Stanhope
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:12 on 28 December 2022
Will Stanhope
View this post on Instagram

Added at 06:12 on 28 December 2022
Matt Segal
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Added at 06:12 on 28 December 2022
Jacob Cook
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Added at 06:12 on 28 December 2022

Ascents

3 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Will Stanhope Lead | worked 14th Aug 2015
First ascent.

Climbed over 4 days with Matt Segal starting on the 11th August.

There are no hands-off stances on the entire four-pitch crux headwall. We used the old aid belays. I’ll be the first in line to hand over an ice-cold sixer of Kokanee mountain-sized beers to whoever links this beast ledge to ledge.

https://www.instagram.com/p/6fjH9pDpSI/

Matt Segal Lead | did not finish 14th Aug 2015
First ascent.

Climbed over 4 days with Will Stanhope starting on the 11th August. Matt was close to climbing every pitch but unfortunately was unable to link the crux face pitch.

I’ve never put so much effort into one climb and am extremely heartbroken for not sending with Will, but I’m super honored to have witnessed his ascent and to have shared so many days on the wall with him…. I guess I just wasn’t meant to send this year but am trying to look on the bright side: Spending more time in the Bugaboos isn’t the worse thing in the world.

https://www.instagram.com/p/6fcdyohXT4/

Jacob Cook Lead | did not finish

Jacob spent a couple of summers trying the route. He came close to climbing the Blood on the Crack pitch but was unable to make much progress on the preceding face pitch.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmrp2pbtdCc/