Tom Egan Memorial Route | 8c Multi-pitch


13 pitches.
🚫 This is currently unclimbable. Typically this is because the climb existed in some state but then changed significantly (e.g. by losing holds) and is now considered a different climb.

Formerly an aid line it was later freed by Will Stanhope and Matt Segal.

In 2022 the Snowpatch Spire suffered a huge rockfall which completely destroyed the route [1].

References

[1] https://gripped.com/news/massive-snowpatch-spire-rockfall-famous-climbs-destroyed/

Contributors
remus
12 contributions since 28th December 2022.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.


Ascents

3 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Will Stanhope Lead | worked Between 11th Aug 2015 and 14th Aug 2015
First ascent. With Matt Segal.

There are no hands-off stances on the entire four-pitch crux headwall. We used the old aid belays. I’ll be the first in line to hand over an ice-cold sixer of Kokanee mountain-sized beers to whoever links this beast ledge to ledge.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/6fjH9pDpSI/

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213997/Let-the-Progression-Continue

Matt Segal Lead | did not finish Between 11th Aug 2015 and 14th Aug 2015
First ascent. With Will Stanhope.

Matt was close to climbing every pitch but unfortunately was unable to link the crux face pitch.

I’ve never put so much effort into one climb and am extremely heartbroken for not sending with Will, but I’m super honored to have witnessed his ascent and to have shared so many days on the wall with him…. I guess I just wasn’t meant to send this year but am trying to look on the bright side: Spending more time in the Bugaboos isn’t the worse thing in the world.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/6fcdyohXT4/

[2] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213997/Let-the-Progression-Continue

Jacob Cook Lead | did not finish

Jacob spent a couple of summers trying the route. He came close to climbing the Blood on the Crack pitch but was unable to make much progress on the preceding face pitch.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Cmrp2pbtdCc/