Climbs / Index

All climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,309 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,184 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
The Ice Knife Boulder problem 8B+ 6
The Journey Sport route 9a+ 6
The Origin Boulder problem 8B+ 6
The Power of the Dark Side Trad climb E7 6
The Saadhu Boulder problem 8B+ 6
The Thimble Trad climb E6 (approx) 6

A pioneering 'very high highball' with V5 climbing, done ground-up in 1961 by John Gill. It is alternatively considered as a route which probably makes it the first 5.12 in the USA. The car park fence originally extended into the landing zone but has since been removed. The climb is now usually attempted above a large stack of pads.

Ironically, the climb is somewhat outside Gill's normal style: it is thin, technical and high whereas John would more typically focus on large gymnastic moves.

The rock is somewhat fragile and it is likely the route has changed since it was first done. Most notably a large hold around half height seems to have broken off. [2]

References

[1] https://americanalpineclub.org/legacy-series

[2] Kris Hampton talks about trying the line in 2026 https://open.spotify.com/episode/1P4yKmMiwDLWXdJ2ka2VR4

The Understanding Boulder problem 8C 6
The Wheel of Chaos Boulder problem 8B 6
Thriller Boulder problem 7C+ 6
Tolerance Trad climb E8 6
Top Notch Boulder problem 8B 6
Trofeo dell’Adriatico Sport route 9a+ 6
Ty Pwmpty Trad climb E9 6

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9nrL6ZN_g8/

UMA Boulder problem 8B+ 6
Unbreakable Boulder problem 8B 6
Valhalla Sport route 9a 6
Variant Boulder problem 8C 6
Vodni Svet Sport route 9a 6
Voyager SDS Boulder problem 8B+ 6
Walk On By Boulder problem 7C+ 6

So far under the radar it's almost antipodean, Walk On By was likely one of the hardest problems in the world when it was first climbed in 1980. The climb is located at Curbar Edge in the heart of the Peak District and features old-school crimping on tiny edges up a vertical quarried wall. In an instructive example of British grading, it was given E3 6c.

The climb was discovered and named by Steve Foster, who climbed it first with one point of aid: manteling a peg at the start. He was mercilessly ribbed for this behaviour, motivating first ascentionist Rob Gawthorpe to show him how to do it properly. Gawthorpe commented:

Walk On By is suited to my climbing style – thin, very technical steep walls, but not crazily overhanging. I think Leeds Wall was a key – Al Manson and I just used to test each other on brick-edge problems on the Leeds Wall – hence how I got good at using very small edges and rock-overs.

It was obviously hard, but I didn't think it was really any harder than some of the other problems we'd been playing on in Yorkshire, particularly with Al Manson at Caley, Almscliff and Hetchell. At that time I thought there were a couple of really hard projects at Caley that seemed much harder.

It took two decades and the steely fingers of Ben Moon to finally give the climb a second ascent.

Walk On By: as the 1991 guidebook quipped, 'Good advice!'

References

[1] On Peak Rock, 2013

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