Climbers

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/6lwxseQAHOXpGPfHouI3nP?

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/people/jesse-grupper-interview-2022/

The route climbing half of Britain's strongest twins.

References

[1] https://lafabriqueverticale.com/en/josune-bereziartu-a-peaceful-transition/

References

[1] AMA on reddit.com/r/iama, September 2018 https://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/9fkki7/we_are_tommy_caldwell_a_climber_who_spent_6_years/

Loïc Zehani is a French sport climber.

Notably, a large majority of his hardest ascents are first ascents and many are at his home crag of Orgon. The crag itself is also somewhat controversial for containing a large number of manufactured routes.

In late 2023 Zehani claimed a controversial repeat of Artaburu (9b) in Margalef, with the video he posted featuring a tight belay which others claimed may have assisted the ascent. He later appeared to withdraw his claim. [2]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/loic-zehani-49337

[2] https://gripped.com/news/controversial-belay-on-a-5-15-causes-uproar/

Maddy is one of the top female climbers in the UK with a particular focus on trad and multi-pitch climbing.

References

[1] Interview with Lattice Training, May 2019 https://latticetraining.com/2019/05/03/interview-maddy-cope/

Features in Life on Hold.

References

[1] Neil's first ascents https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/ticklists/neils_new_routes-121

Antoine Le Menestrel:

You etched climbing in to our culture, you brought climbing up to an art form. You lived climbing, it was your lifestyle, I was still a student, looking on. I loved to watch you climb, your suppleness passed over in to my body. [1]

Lynn Hill:

Patrick will always have a place in my heart and memories. The times I spent eating dinner at his house, laughing, working together for "Rock and Wall" magazine, and climbing on the beautiful cliffs of Southern France were precious moments of life. Being from the same generation, I was inspired by Patrick's visionary achievements when he came to the States and on-sighted many of the hardest routes in the country. [1]

Jerry Moffatt:

A memory which stands out was when he took me out in his new HF Lancia Integral. He was a great driver and after warming up the engine went absolutely flat out! However at no time did I feel scared. Such was his charisma, he had an aura of total confidence and control. [1]

References

[1] Tributes to Patrick Edlinger, https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/patrick_edlinger_-_le_blond-5117

[2] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/3470129359719881

[3] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/928362310563278

[4] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZlxY5rNGJk

[5] Portrait by Gérard Kosicki https://www.instagram.com/p/CpGPhnQqTbe/

[6] Climbing in Cimaï, 1980s https://www.instagram.com/p/C_7fEUvtS-r/

[7] https://open.spotify.com/episode/3GHP3L6JrJAAnjRlWaqxw7?

[8] https://open.spotify.com/episode/0tiGG5Q3q4kJYDvoIYIxZr?

Cameron Burns: Why do you go climbing? What's your motivation?

I don't think there really a concrete definition of motivation. It’s just fun. Sometimes I've woken up hours before dawn and Just have to go climbing - and I'll go out and climb all day long. What's most important to me is tne really big day when I can't help but go out climbing. On a big soloing day, I often find myself trying not to run up to the base of the cliff, but then I’ll just take off running up to the base of the cliff. I remember reading in Herman Buhl's book, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage about how he was driven to do stuff and he didn’t really know why. I don’t have concrete goals in that if I do such and such then I'll be able to climb Everest or if I do this and this and this, then I'll be able to climb 5.14. The things I’m most pleased with are days when I've really pushed hard and seen how far I can go. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 143 (1992), page 19 /library/11327/mountain-143

References

[1] https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/rei-kawamata/