Sleepwalker | 8C+ Boulder problem at Black Velvet Canyon

UKClimbing.com | TheCrag.com | 8a.nu
See also Return of the Sleepwalker.

Sleepwalker is a boulder problem in Red Rocks in the USA. Nalle Hukkataival first cleaned and tried the line, and was then joined by Jimmy Webb and Daniel Woods in trying it. Jimmy Webb made the first ascent, shortly followed by Daniel Woods. After a prolonged battle with skin and conditions Nalle was able to make the third ascent.

It has become one of the most popular hard boulders in the world, in part due to relatively reliable conditions and ease of access, with 15 ascents at the time of writing.

Contributors
remus
46 contributions since 8th February 2021.

Pics + Vids

No pics or vids yet.

Ascents

15 recorded ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Jimmy Webb Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2018 8C+
First ascent. 11 sessions.

Back in the middle of November we made a trip to Red Rocks to escape the snow falling in California. I had a plan to try a very rad and HARD project in Black Velvet Canyon that was originally tried by @nalle_hukkataival. Initially I could not do a single move. But over the course of 11 days... with many moments of frustration I found myself on top of what could be the hardest boulder in the country.

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMIIffUMV8g

[2] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bs6DF_FBU5W/
Daniel Woods Boulder | worked 21st Jan 2019 8C+
Second ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/Bs6GxAzlYr3/
Nalle Hukkataival Boulder | worked 2nd Feb 2019
Third ascent.

Using a slightly different sequence to previous ascentionists. Nalle was unable to span directly to the thin slot, so instead he matched on the sloper with a marginal toe hook before bumping in to the slot.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/BtZctGWniYy/

[2] https://youtu.be/iPZ1w7tjo_M?t=733
Griffin Whiteside Boulder | worked Between 2nd Feb 2019 and 26th Jan 2020
Fourth ascent?

References

[1] https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/whiteside

[2] https://www.99boulders.com/hardest-boulder-problems#:~:text=Reply-,thomas%20moirarty,-April%2025%2C%202022
Drew Ruana Boulder | worked 26th Jan 2020 8C+
8 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/B7zPaDap17g/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ql4XnjGclLw

[3] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/19c5qgd/comment/kixjpq4/
Nathan Williams Boulder | worked 27th Dec 2020 8C+

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CJWnAMFDVYO/
Pablo Hammack Boulder | worked Feb 2021

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CLBPueOD4Nj/
Matt Fultz Boulder | worked 3rd Feb 2021 8C+ (soft)

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CK5Vr3yjOix/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-Tw2HpbAaQ
Ryuichi Murai Boulder | worked 6th Feb 2023 8C+
8 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CoVHrY_vgBq/

[2] https://youtu.be/zbzTGtZ-zd8
Zander Waller Boulder | worked 12th Oct 2023 8C (soft)
4 sessions.

Prior to this ascent Zander's hardest boulder was an 8B! However he did find some new beta which he suggested made it closer to 8C.

The new beta changes the crux sequence of the boulder from V14 or 15 into hard V13. This makes the breakdown of the climb V13 into V11.

As for the sit, it's really hard! I got so shutdown trying the moves on it yesterday. It's definitely harder the taller you are, so anyone who is tall enough to do the new beta will really struggle on the start, and vice versa. [2]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CyXN4XpLI6M/

[2] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/177fkti/comment/k4v8qc1/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKYyPs2PeVw
Kai Whaley Boulder | worked Nov 2023 8C+

Notably Kai's hardest problem prior to climbing this was 8B so he skipped 2 grades.

I’m beyond words for this one. It has a big place in my heart cause I grew up in Vegas and watched Jimmy during the process of the fa on this boulder. I’m so psyched to finally be strong enough to put this one down.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0FEHjTv25k/?img_index=1
Zach Galla Boulder | worked 15th Dec 2023 8C+ (soft)
7 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C06-2MWppnS/

[2] https://youtu.be/F8l8pvUpCLs?t=985
Andy Lamb Boulder | worked 2nd Jan 2024 8C+ (soft)
Noah Wheeler Boulder | worked 9th Jan 2024 8C+ (soft)
5 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C14yTwFudQk/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wI_pY5h5Eo8

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR8xjoCPEKU
Will Bosi Boulder | worked 20th Jan 2024 8C
3 sessions.

Will was close to climbing the problem on his second session, dropping it with his right hand in the slot and left hand on the sloper. He then did it on the first go of his third session.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C2Xf6BpreZ5/?img_index=1

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z44acjCBPMA