Right Wall | E5 Trad climb on Dinas Cromlech

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Ken Wilson [?]:

After two abseil inspections to clean loose rock and study the line, Livesey linked up an intricate series of holds and ledges, to gain the traverse ledge of the girdle, without aid either for resting or progress. The prospect of unprotected and fierce climbing ahead stopped him at this point and, after tying off his rope, he soloed off up Cemetery Gates to have a further inspection from a rope, and to try two alternatives with jumar protection. Returning to the ledge, he pulled down the rope and finished the route, although the chosen alternative proved more difficult and sustained than expected. [1]

References

[1] Mountain 37, page 13 /library/11056/mountain-37

A belay was taken on the girdle ledge and high runner placed in Cemetery Gates to protect the upper crux.

I led on sight with some difficulty up to the ledge and as there was no chalk couldn't see where the route went. There was a line pretty close to the Gates but I didn't think that was it as it was too close. I brought my brother up and he belayed.

In order to provide a bit of safety I put a runner just above him as I did not want to fall directly onto him. I went looking for the line and ended off setting up what is now the top section of lord of the flies, but was then unclimbed. Without any extra gear I pumped out and took a massive pendulum and even went around the arete.

After a rest on the ledge I led up what I then knew was the line quite close to the Gates. I was a bit disappointed that the holds even went a bit right at the top even closer to the Gates. I was also annoyed as I had missed the line first time.

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/what_happened_to_graded_lists-792440

Fourth ascent, aged just 17! [1]

References

[1] The Power of Climbing (1991) by David Jones, page 39

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 109, page 42

This solo ascent was a repeat. Phil first onsighted the route in 1977 giving the route it's fourth ascent.

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/style-is-everything.34729/post-715095

References

[1] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/style-is-everything.34729/post-715111

The first female ascent of an E5 in the UK, 10 years after being unable to second Pete Livesey on the first ascent in 1974.

success on Right Wall was a brilliant personal achievement and the fulfilment of an ambition. It was also a highly significant step in the history of British women’s rock climbing. [1]

References

[1] Women Climbing: 200 Years of Achievement, Bill Birkett & Bill Peascod, 1989

[2] https://www.facebook.com/pinnacleclubuk/photos/pcb.4740043816078027/4740043739411368/

The fourth time Right Wall had been soloed.

References

[1] Mountain Issue 112, page 18 /library/11111/mountain-112

References

[1] Houlding, L. (2022). Closer to the Edge: Climbing to the Ends of the Earth. United Kingdom: Headline. Chapter 8.

An early onsight ascent.

The reputation that went with Right Wall then was massive...I did the route fine. In fact the hardest part was, there was chalk all over the place, and I ended up partly in Lord of the Flies...I got to the top and I thought "Hmm, Scottish E4"! [1]

References

[1] http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2022/10/7/jcpc-120-dave-cubby-cuthbertson