Northern Lights | 9a Sport route at Kilnsey

UKClimbing.com | 8a.nu
Bolted by Ben Moon.

Bolted by Ben Moon in 1993 and then tried extensively. Despite coming close around 1995 was unable to finish the route due to a combination of poor conditions and injury.

Steve McClure's successful ascent in July 2000 represented a passing of the torch, with him taking on the mantle as the UK's pre-eminent sport climber by finishing off Ben's old project.

Contributors
remus
16 contributions since 12th June 2021.

Pics + Vids

Ben Moon
Added at 19:02 on 28 February 2021
Alex Megos
Added at 08:11 on 03 November 2021
Will Bosi
Added at 18:07 on 06 July 2021
Will Bosi
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:06 on 12 June 2021
Josh Ibbertson
View this post on Instagram

Added at 07:08 on 28 August 2021
Josh Ibbertson
Added at 06:03 on 04 March 2022
Pete Dawson
View this post on Instagram

Added at 21:08 on 20 August 2022

Ascents

8 recorded ascents, including 2 unsuccessful ascents.

Climber Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Steve McClure Lead | worked 18th Jul 2000
First ascent. 15 sessions.

Steve cemented himself as the top sport climber in the UK, taking over from Moon and Moffatt and leading sport climbing in the UK in to a new era.

Notably, Steve used a different sequence from what Ben Moon was trying with the original line. Steve's sequence loops out slightly where Ben was trying to go very direct.

The route took more out of me than any other and tested more than my climbing ability - mentally it was draining and took over my whole life. I think it had to for me to get up it. For a better climber the route could fall quite quickly, especially without the pressure of it being a first ascent. The moves are totally sustained but never desperate, I'm sure the future of hard climbing is in this style - super sustained thing. [1]

References

[1] On The Edge Issue 101, page 11
Ben Moon Lead | did not finish After 1st Jan 1993
Over 100 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/458296474236533
Malcolm Smith Lead | did not finish Before 1st Jan 2000

References

[1] Interview with Neil Mann, 2017 https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/2/14/interview-malcolm-smith
Adam Ondra Lead | worked 3rd May 2010
Second ascent.
Alex Megos Lead | worked 5th Jun 2016

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/06/alex_megos_repeats_northern_lights_9a-70498

[2]https://www.facebook.com/AlexanderMegosSportler/photos/a.428895480583768/732079860265327/?type=3
Will Bosi Lead | worked 11th Jun 2021
Belayed by Ben Moon. 2 sessions.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CP_Zh_QDgxd/

[2] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlQ-iqu6K64
Josh Ibbertson Lead | worked 27th Aug 2021

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CTFyABAj_tI/

[2] https://www.instagram.com/tv/CTNcnd8DpfW/

[3] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKbIoFgK3Fw
Pete Dawson Lead | worked 20th Aug 2022

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/ChffKtyD3z_/