[1] Suspension Bridge Buttress some time in the 1960s or early 1970s, before the mezzanine was built to protect the underlying road from rockfall. Photo by Ken Wilson. Mountain Issue 20, page 18 https://climbing-history.org/file/3b360d7a-ee16-0702-e072-7068b497b36b/1727011735377_b006a1d8_96f2_4875_b413_96d387a309ed_.jpg
37 recorded climbs.
| Year | Climb | Grade | Climber | Style | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1936 | Piton Route | VS | F G Balcombe | Lead | worked | 1936 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
Probably with J Sheppard.
|
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| 1937 | ||||||
| 1938 | ||||||
| 1939 | ||||||
| 1940 | ||||||
| 1941 | ||||||
| 1942 | ||||||
| 1943 | ||||||
| 1944 | ||||||
| 1945 | ||||||
| 1946 | ||||||
| 1947 | ||||||
| 1948 | ||||||
| 1949 | ||||||
| 1950 | ||||||
| 1951 | ||||||
| 1952 | Central Buttress | E1 | L Joe Griffin | Lead | onsight | 1952 | |
| First ascent. With Hugh Banner. | ||||||
References[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club |
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| Central Buttress | E1 | Hugh Banner | Lead | onsight | 1952 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
Climbed in Woolworth's plimsoles. "A major breakthrough that set the style in Avon climbing for two decades" [1]. References[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club p355. |
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| 1953 | ||||||
| 1954 | ||||||
| 1955 | Macavity | E2 | Chris Bonington | Lead | ground up | 3rd Jul 1955 | |
| First ascent. With some points of aid. | ||||||
|
Bonington's first significant new route and the first to breach the impressive Main Wall at Avon Gorge. Partnered by G Francis. |
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| 1956 | Malpractice | E1 | Chris Bonington | Lead | onsight | Nov 1956 | |
| First ascent. With Mike Thompson. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
| Malpractice | E1 | Mike Thompson | Second | onsight | Nov 1956 | ||
| First ascent. With Chris Bonington. | ||||||
| 1957 | Malbogies | HVS | Chris Bonington | Lead | 23rd Oct 1957 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1958 | ||||||
| 1959 | ||||||
| 1960 | ||||||
| 1961 | Puke | HVS | Mike Thompson | Alternate Leads | ground up | 1961 | |
| First ascent. With Chris Bonington. | ||||||
| Puke | HVS | Chris Bonington | Alternate Leads | ground up | 1961 | ||
| First ascent. With Mike Thompson. | ||||||
| 1962 | ||||||
| 1963 | ||||||
| 1964 | ||||||
| 1965 | ||||||
| 1966 | The Preter | E2 | Oliver R Hill | Second | 1st May 1966 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| The Preter | E2 | Ed Drummond | Lead | onsight | 1st May 1966 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1967 | The Blik | E3 | Ed Drummond | Lead | May 1967 | |
| First ascent. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
| Krapp's Last Tape | E3 | Ed Drummond | Lead | May 1967 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
| The Last Gasp | E2 | Ed Drummond | Lead | Jun 1967 | ||
| First ascent. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
References[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club |
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| 1968 | ||||||
| 1969 | The Electric Orgasm | E3 | Tony Wilmott | Lead | 27th Sep 1969 | |
| First ascent. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
| 1970 | ||||||
| 1971 | Think Pink | E4 | Tony Wilmott | Lead | worked | Feb 1971 | |
| First ascent. With Richard Harrison and Brian Wyvill. 2 points of aid. | ||||||
| Amanita Muscarina | E4 | Tony Wilmott | Lead | 2nd May 1971 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
Mostly aided |
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| Magic Theatre | E5 | Tony Wilmott | Lead | Oct 1971 | ||
| First ascent. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
| Steppenwolf | E3 | Tony Wilmott | Lead | Oct 1971 | ||
| First ascent. 2 points of aid. | ||||||
| 1972 | Don't Slip | E5 | Ed Drummond | Lead | worked | 5th Apr 1972 | |
| First ascent. Belayed by Tom Proctor. | ||||||
References[1] Mountain Issue 21, page 12 |
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| Yellow Edge | E3 | Terry Gloag | Lead | onsight | May 1972 | ||
| First ascent. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
| Central Wall | E4 | Tony Wilmott | Lead | 10th Jun 1972 | ||
| First ascent. 2 points of aid. | ||||||
| 1973 | ||||||
| 1974 | Pink Ginsane | E6 | Richard Broomhead | Aid | 2nd Jun 1974 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1975 | ||||||
| 1976 | Cumming Round the Mountain | E3 | Arnis Strapcans | Lead | onsight | Jan 1976 | |
| First ascent. With Steve Berry. | ||||||
References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| G.T. Special | E4 | Arnis Strapcans | Lead | onsight | 30th Mar 1976 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
With a rest on a peg on the first pitch. References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| Main Wall Eliminate | E4 | Richard Harrison | Alternate Leads | onsight | 20th May 1976 | ||
| First ascent. With Arnis Strapcans. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| Main Wall Eliminate | E4 | Arnis Strapcans | Alternate Leads | onsight | 20th May 1976 | ||
| First ascent. With Richard Harrison. | ||||||
|
With a point of aid. [1] References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| 1977 | ||||||
| 1978 | Atmosfears | E5 | Arnis Strapcans | Lead | onsight | 11th Aug 1978 | |
| First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin. 2 points of aid. | ||||||
References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| 1979 | The Aardvark And The Ferret | E6 | Andy Hall | Lead | worked | 1979 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| Amanita Muscarina | E4 | Steve Monks | Lead | 1979 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
First free ascent |
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| Slender Norris | E5 | Andy Hall | Lead | worked | 20th Aug 1979 | ||
| First ascent. With Steve Findlay. | ||||||
|
Worked over three days and led with preplaced protection. Redpointed shortly after. References[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club p368 |
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| 1980 | ||||||
| 1981 | Lost Illusions (2 Pegs) | E7 | Andy Hall | Lead | worked | 1981 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
Led after extensive top-rope practice, an unusual practice for the time and initially not named or claimed as an ascent because of this. References |
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| 1982 | ||||||
| 1983 | Unknown Pleasures | E6 | Andy Hall | Second | Jun 1983 | |
| First ascent. With Duncan Critchley. | ||||||
| Unknown Pleasures | E6 | Duncan Critchley | Lead | worked | Jun 1983 | ||
| First ascent. With Andy Hall. | ||||||
|
Cleaned on abseil but not practiced. |
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| Tour de France | E6 | Martin Corbett | Lead | worked | 24th Aug 1983 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
References |
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| 1984 | Solution Pollution | E5 | Richard Harrison | Lead | 27th Jun 1984 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| Partial Eclipse | E4 | Richard Harrison | Lead | 27th Jun 1984 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1985 | Bold as Love | E6 | Martin Crocker | Lead | worked | 4th Apr 1985 | |
| First ascent. With Gordon Jenkin. | ||||||
| JCB | E3 | Richard Broomhead | Lead | 21st Aug 1985 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1986 | ||||||
| 1987 | ||||||
| 1988 | ||||||
| 1989 | ||||||
| 1990 | ||||||
| 1991 | ||||||
| 1992 | ||||||
| 1993 | ||||||
| 1994 | Feed Your Head (Eclipsed) | E7 | Mark Turnbull | Solo | worked | 17th Jun 1994 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
References[1] Crocker, M. (2017). Avon Gorge: Climbers’ Club |
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| 1995 | ||||||
| 1996 | ||||||
| 1997 | ||||||
| 1998 | The Prince | 8a+ | Ian Vickers | Lead | worked | Aug 1998 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1999 | Partial Eclipse (No Bolt) | E7 | Martin Crocker | Solo | worked | 6th Jul 1999 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| Crown of Thorns | E7 | Guy Percival | Lead | worked | 11th Aug 1999 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
| Climb | Grade | # Recorded Ascents | Ascents Recorded Between |
|---|---|---|---|
| The Prince | 8a+ | 1 | 1st August 1998 – 1st September 1998 |
| Climb | Grade | # Recorded Ascents | Ascents Recorded Between |
|---|---|---|---|
| Feed Your Head (Eclipsed) | E7 | 2 | 17th June 1994 – 1st January 1997 |
| Crown of Thorns | E7 | 1 | 11th August 1999 |
| Partial Eclipse (No Bolt) | E7 | 1 | 6th July 1999 |
| Lost Illusions (2 Pegs) | E7 | 1 | 1st January 1981 – 1st January 1982 |
| Unknown Pleasures | E6 | 4 | 1st June 1983 – 29th July 2026 |
| Pink Ginsane | E6 | 4 | 2nd June 1974 – 1st January 1990 |
| The Aardvark And The Ferret | E6 | 3 | 1st January 1979 – 1st January 2002 |
| Bold as Love | E6 | 1 | 4th April 1985 |
| Tour de France | E6 | 1 | 24th August 1983 |
| Atmosfears | E5 | 2 | 11th August 1978 – 10th May 1980 |
| Lost Illusions | E5 | 1 | 1st January 1983 – 1st January 1984 |
| Slender Norris | E5 | 1 | 20th August 1979 |
| Magic Theatre | E5 | 1 | 1st October 1971 – 1st November 1971 |
| Solution Pollution | E5 | 1 | 27th June 1984 |
| Don't Slip | E5 | 1 | 5th April 1972 |
| Main Wall Eliminate | E4 | 3 | 20th May 1976 – 1st July 1978 |
| G.T. Special | E4 | 2 | 30th March 1976 – 26th October 1976 |
| Amanita Muscarina | E4 | 2 | 2nd May 1971 – 1st January 1980 |
| Think Pink | E4 | 2 | 1st February 1971 – 4th December 1977 |
| Partial Eclipse | E4 | 1 | 27th June 1984 |
| Central Wall | E4 | 1 | 10th June 1972 |
| Yellow Edge | E3 | 6 | 1st May 1972 – 1st October 1984 |
| Steppenwolf | E3 | 3 | 1st October 1971 – 24th May 1976 |
| The Electric Orgasm | E3 | 1 | 27th September 1969 |
| The Blik | E3 | 1 | 1st May 1967 – 1st June 1967 |
| Cumming Round the Mountain | E3 | 1 | 1st January 1976 – 1st February 1976 |
| Krapp's Last Tape | E3 | 1 | 1st May 1967 – 1st June 1967 |
| JCB | E3 | 1 | 21st August 1985 |
| The Last Gasp | E2 | 2 | 1st June 1967 – 18th May 1976 |
| The Preter | E2 | 2 | 1st May 1966 |
| Macavity | E2 | 1 | 3rd July 1955 |
| Central Buttress | E1 | 2 | 1st January 1952 – 1st January 1953 |
| Malpractice | E1 | 2 | 1st November 1956 – 1st December 1956 |
| Puke | HVS | 2 | 1st January 1961 – 1st January 1962 |
| Malbogies | HVS | 1 | 23rd October 1957 |
| Piton Route | VS | 1 | 1st January 1936 – 1st January 1937 |
