The beauty and location of Lundy and the uniqueness of the climbing experience on the island, together with the fact we must leave it behind, create a perspective from which to consider our actions. I think the distance allows us to consider how we can improve upon what has gone before; it's definitely a case of not what you do but how you do it. That's no truer than when we consider what Lundy offers us to enjoy. The lesson we should learn from things like the wholesale bolting of Black Crag is that the beauty of any jewel is lost in our attempts to posses it. [1]
[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008.
33 recorded climbs.
| Year | Climb | Grade | Climber | Style | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1973 | Headline | E1 | Frank Cannings | Lead | 19th Apr 1973 | |
| First ascent. With John Kingston. | ||||||
| Supernova | E5 | Pat Littlejohn | Alternate Leads | 20th Apr 1973 | ||
| First ascent. With some points of aid. | ||||||
|
With one peg for aid on the first pitch and two on the second. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| 1974 | Wolfman Jack | E3 | Pete Thexton | Lead | 13th Apr 1974 | |
| First ascent. 4 points of aid. | ||||||
|
Reduced to two points of aid later the same month. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| The Promised Land | E3 | Keith Darbyshire | Alternate Leads | 16th Apr 1974 | ||
| First ascent. With Pat Littlejohn. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| The Promised Land | E3 | Pat Littlejohn | Alternate Leads | 16th Apr 1974 | ||
| First ascent. With Keith Darbyshire. 1 point of aid. | ||||||
References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. [2] Mountain Issue 37, /library/11056/mountain-37 |
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| 1975 | ||||||
| 1976 | The Exorcist | E3 | Arnis Strapcans | Alternate Leads | onsight | 24th Apr 1976 | |
| First ascent. With Frank Cannings. | ||||||
References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| The Exorcist | E3 | Frank Cannings | Alternate Leads | onsight | 24th Apr 1976 | ||
| First ascent. With Arnis Strapcans. | ||||||
References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| 1977 | Scorched Earth | E2 | Arnis Strapcans | Lead | worked | 11th Apr 1977 | |
| First ascent. With Frank Cannings. | ||||||
References[1] Arnis Strapcans' first ascents book 2, Mountain Heritage Trust collection. |
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| 1978 | ||||||
| 1979 | ||||||
| 1980 | ||||||
| 1981 | ||||||
| 1982 | ||||||
| 1983 | ||||||
| 1984 | The Cullinan | E5 | Gary Gibson | Lead | worked | 26th Jul 1984 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| Cithaeron | E4 | Gary Gibson | Lead | 27th Jul 1984 | ||
| First ascent. With Matt Ward. | ||||||
| I Scream | E6 | Simon Nadin | Lead | 17th Aug 1984 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1985 | Watching the Ocean | E6 | Gary Gibson | Lead | worked | 25th Jul 1985 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
With three bolts. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. [2] Mountain Issue 108, page 36 /library/11130/mountain-108 |
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| Death Watch Beetle Drive | E6 | Gary Gibson | Lead | worked | 25th Aug 1985 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| 1986 | Mayan Skies | E7 | Matt Ward | Alternate Leads | worked | 31st Jul 1986 | |
| First ascent. With Gary Gibson. | ||||||
| Mayan Skies | E7 | Gary Gibson | Alternate Leads | worked | 31st Jul 1986 | ||
| First ascent. With Matt Ward. | ||||||
| 1987 | Voyage of the Acolyte | E6 | Dave Pegg | Alternate Leads | 12th Aug 1987 | |
| First ascent. With Dave Thomas. | ||||||
References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| 1988 | Hey Gringo | 7c | Gary Gibson | Lead | worked | 6th Aug 1988 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| 1989 | Silver Smile | E5 | Gary Gibson | Lead | worked | 1989 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
References[1] Mountain Issue 132 (1990), page 15 /library/11324/mountain-132 |
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| Bathfinder | E6 | Gary Gibson | Alternate Leads | worked | 1989 | ||
| First ascent. With Matt Ward and Roy Thomas. | ||||||
| Ticket Ro Ride | E5 | Steve Boydon | Lead | 1989 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
References[1] Mountain Issue 132 (1990), page 15 /library/11324/mountain-132 |
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| Flying the Colours | E5 | Pat Littlejohn | Lead | 6th May 1989 | ||
| First ascent. With Nick White. | ||||||
|
The bolt on The Cullinan was removed before the auccessful ascent. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| The Flying Dutchman | E7 | Nick White | Alternate Leads | worked | Aug 1989 | ||
| First ascent. With Dave Thomas. | ||||||
References[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 10 /library/11314/mountain-129 |
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| The Earthsea Trilogy Part 2 | E6 | Nick White | Alternate Leads | 6th Aug 1989 | ||
| First ascent. With Dave Thomas. | ||||||
References[1] Mountain Issue 129 (1989), page 10 /library/11314/mountain-129 |
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| 1990 | ||||||
| 1991 | ||||||
| 1992 | ||||||
| 1993 | ||||||
| 1994 | ||||||
| 1995 | ||||||
| 1996 | ||||||
| 1997 | ||||||
| 1998 | ||||||
| 1999 | ||||||
| 2000 | ||||||
| 2001 | ||||||
| 2002 | ||||||
| 2003 | Loosifer | E6 | James McHaffie | Lead | onsight | 2003 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
References[1] High Mountain Issue 253, page 20 |
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| Amygdala | E8 | Nic Sellars | Lead | worked | 2nd Sep 2003 | ||
| First ascent. Pre-placed gear. | ||||||
|
Nic pre-placed a small cam. References[1] High Mountain Issue 253, page 18 [2] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| 2004 | ||||||
| 2005 | ||||||
| 2006 | The Flying Dutchman | E7 | Neil Gresham | Deep Water Solo | worked | 2006 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
References |
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| 2007 | Ariel Song | E8 | Charlie Woodburn | Lead | worked | 13th Sep 2007 | |
| First ascent. | ||||||
| Quetzalcoatl | E9 | Neil Dickson | Lead | worked | 14th Sep 2007 | ||
| First ascent. | ||||||
|
An extremely impressive ascent, climbed ground up after abseil inspection and removal of the bolts. The successful ascent was made on the third try, with the first two necessitating a retreat from sky hooks. References[1] Paul Harrison. Lundy. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club, 2008. |
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| Climb | Grade | # Recorded Ascents | Ascents Recorded Between |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hey Gringo | 7c | 1 | 6th August 1988 |
| Climb | Grade | # Recorded Ascents | Ascents Recorded Between |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quetzalcoatl | E9 | 1 | 14th September 2007 |
| Amygdala | E8 | 1 | 2nd September 2003 |
| Ariel Song | E8 | 1 | 13th September 2007 |
| Mayan Skies | E7 | 4 | 31st July 1986 – 5th August 1989 |
| The Flying Dutchman | E7 | 3 | 1st August 1989 – 1st January 2007 |
| Watching the Ocean | E6 | 5 | 25th July 1985 – 1st January 2004 |
| Ark of the Covenent | E6 | 1 | 1st January 1989 – 1st January 1990 |
| Loosifer | E6 | 1 | 1st January 2003 – 1st January 2004 |
| Araucaria | E6 | 1 | |
| I Scream | E6 | 1 | 17th August 1984 |
| Death Watch Beetle Drive | E6 | 1 | 25th August 1985 |
| Voyage of the Acolyte | E6 | 1 | 12th August 1987 |
| Bathfinder | E6 | 1 | 1st January 1989 – 1st January 1990 |
| The Earthsea Trilogy Part 2 | E6 | 1 | 6th August 1989 |
| Supernova | E5 | 3 | 20th April 1973 – 1st January 1985 |
| The Cullinan | E5 | 2 | 26th July 1984 – 1st September 1989 |
| Flying the Colours | E5 | 1 | 6th May 1989 |
| A Widespread Ocean of Fear | E5 | 1 | |
| Silver Smile | E5 | 1 | 1st January 1989 – 1st January 1990 |
| Ticket Ro Ride | E5 | 1 | 1st January 1989 – 1st January 1990 |
| Controlled Burning | E4 | 1 | |
| Cithaeron | E4 | 1 | 27th July 1984 |
| Coast to Coast | E4 | 0 | |
| Wolfman Jack | E3 | 3 | 13th April 1974 – 1st September 1979 |
| The Promised Land | E3 | 2 | 16th April 1974 |
| The Exorcist | E3 | 2 | 24th April 1976 |
| The Great Divide | E3 | 1 | |
| Jetset | E3 | 1 | |
| Bender | E3 | 1 | |
| Scorched Earth | E2 | 1 | 11th April 1977 |
| Headline | E1 | 2 | 19th April 1973 |
| The Devil's Slide | HS | 0 |