Climbs

Gioia has a slightly complicated history due to the fragile nature of the rock and the required reinforcements.

After a couple of repeats from Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods and Dave Graham came to try the problem and discovered some new beta using a foothold that appeared after some rock broke. Christian then filled the new hold in to bring the problem back to it's original state. Speaking on facebook, Christian said:

After Daniel Woods and Dave Graham's attempts at sending Gioia, today I fixed the new foothold which resulted from the accidental breaking off of a piece of rock in a section of the boulder that had never been used before - section 2 of Gioia.

Now the line is back to its original state, exactly as it was when I first climbed it and when Adam Ondra and Nalle Hukkataival did their repetitions.

The original footholds are always the same; the new one was frail and would have easily broken again. I never use purpose made glue to fix these kind of issues, it's not a practice I like.

However, due to its acknowledged importance, Gioia deserved to be restored to its original line so that it could be again equal to every climber who has tried it in the past and will try it in the future. [1]

After this Woods and Graham lost interest in trying the problem.

References

[1] https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2yu9kn/after_a_foot_hold_on_gioia_broke_during_attempts/

Stand start 8A+

This boulder was originally named "Ill Trill", however, the Magic Wood guidebook has it incorrectly listed as "Ill Thrill" and most other sources have followed suit.

When he made the FA Paul didn't realise that Wovenhand had been climbed. There was some controversy around him offering a new name for the sit start. [1]

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/8c-fa-by-paul-robinson-in-magic-wood