Climbs

Although given E6 it is now typically done above a pile of pads at a highball ~7A. The pad-less version is a scary prospect!

Named after a big hold in the middle of the problem.

An adventurous Pen Llŷn sandbag whose reputation far exceeds its modest grade.

Stevie Haston:

The accomplishments of Ray Kay and Dave Jones were very underrated at this time, they really carried the torch of on-sight climbing. I took a different attitude as I know I would die if I did too much. I did try Bobok before they did it, lowering-off five equalised pieces from up high, and then when I got down I just flicked all the runners out.[1]

One of the hardest boulders in Sogn.

Bon Voyage is an extremely hard trad route in Annot, France. It starts up Le Voyage before breaking left across poor pockets to an arete.

First ascentionist James Pearson did not offer a grade initially as he wanted to get the opinion of other strong climbers. After spending time on the route with many of the world's best trad climbers, including Steve McClure, Ignacio Mulero and Sébastien Berthe, he decided a grade of E12 was appropriate. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2HAuDaq2kSHM6L7vdDu6uu

Initially 8C+ was suggested and the first few repeats seemed to agree with this. In 2023 Katie Lamb climbed the problem, which would have made her the first woman to climb 8C+, but subsequent ascentionists have suggested that 8C is more appropriate and Daniel Woods (who made the first ascent) has retrospectively adjusted his opinion to 8C.

The problem is near Box Lake in Colorado which is where the name comes from.

Conveniently situated near the graveyard of the Morewenstow Church, Henna is the highest precipice on the Culm coast and the most frightening. The only route up the main cliff might well be available when other crags hereabouts become too overcrowded. A huge boulder lies ominously beneath the central fault-line. Terrordactyls, ice-screws, stakes and a strong belief in one’s immortality are the main requirements for an ascent. After pitch 2 retreat would be at best extremely difficult or at worst terminally easy. [1]

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The ultimate shale horror. [2]

References

[1] Peters, I (1989). North Devon and Cornwall. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.

[2] Hope, D., Wilkinson, B. (2000). North Devon and Cornwall. United Kingdom: Climbers' Club.