Climbs

Originally 5.13b, currently 5.12c.

Andy Moles:

The 'theft' of the climb's first free ascent in the early 90s and attendant bolting controversies reputedly set free climbing in Zion back a decade. Through many subsequent ascents, both free and 'clean aid', the route has become easier than it was when Peter Croft and Jonny Woodward first freed it. The placing and removal and weighting of hundreds of cams has eroded the sandstone, widening the cracks. What was once a fingertip layback in the dihedral is now studded with apertures that accept at least a knuckle. The walls are scratched and whitened by the hauling of bags. We did our best, depositing our supplies by abseil rather than hauling, but our ascent still made a contribution to the wear. The route is compromised, and so are we; it is only the easing of difficulty that brought it close to our ability in the first place. [1]

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/moonlight_buttress-12928

Adam originally suggested 9b/+ but Sébastien Bouin suggested a rare upgrade after his ascent.

8b/+ depending on how well you fit the thin hands section.

The first 8c+ in Italy.

In Welsh mythology Olwen is the goddess of the sun.

Initially Ramón Julián Puigblanque climbed the full line, then at a later date an intermediate lower off was added that avoided the upper 8b+ section, as this is frequently wet.

References

[1] https://www.8a.nu/news/ashima-was-misinformed-about-the-9a+-grade

Grade might have changed sightly with holds changing over time.

12 moves

First climbed by Jerry Moffatt after a long layoff, during which he got into fast motorbikes. A powerband on a bike is the specific RPM range where an engine produces its maximum torque and power.