The Death Star | 8c Sport route at Cheddar Gorge

More

• Change Log
• Threads

First ascent.

Climbed super direct to the tufa, but didn't match the slot - instead I used the slot as a LH sidepull and did a massive move to the next crimp with my right hand before going to the mono with my left. Same holds as the original sequence but in a different order! It didn't feel very eliminate to me like this, just climbing the line of bolts without traversing onto the 7c. Still squeezed in, but really good moves. French 8a+ to an ok rest then Font 7B to the top.

Same approximate sequence as [Tom] Newberry and Ellis [Butler-Barker] - via the rejecting slot and mono. I have no authority nor experience to suggest what grade this is, climbed in this manner. Absolutely understand why Chris S went totally direct; good to be beyond scrutiny on a FA. Whatever way this route is climbed, it is really, really good (Ian's sequence is proper good too). Engaging moves and a proper test of power endurance on excellent rock.