Climbs

Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
La Proue Boulder problem 8B 12
La Rose et le Vampire Sport route 8b 12
Life of Villains Sport route 9a 12
London Wall Trad climb E5 12
Mandela Sport route 8a+ 12

So-named because it was said it would never go free.

Mirror Reality Boulder problem 8B+ 12
Monk Life Boulder problem 8B+ 12
Muscle Car Boulder problem 8B+ 12
Ninja Skills Boulder problem 8B+ 12
Nuthin' But Sunshine Boulder problem 8B 12
Punks in the Gym Sport route 8b+ 12

One of the first 8b+s in the world. Possibly slightly easier now than for Güllich and Glowacz since the construction of the birdbath hold subsequent to their ascents.

References

[1] https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/

[2] https://verticallifemag.com/articles/40-years-of-punks-in-the-gym/

Silbergeier Sport route 8b+ 12
Squoze Boulder problem 8B+ 12
Super Crackinette Sport route 9a+ 12
Superman SDS Boulder problem 8B+ 12

Originally thought to be 8B/+. A 'crucial' side pull broke after the first ascent but it was later re-climbed without the side pull.

The Kingdom Boulder problem 8B+ 12
The Singularity Boulder problem 8C 12

Around 2018 the crux hold was chipped making the problem slightly easier. [1]

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/CmHtkP6uRao/

The Walk of Life Trad climb E9 12

A route with a complicated history. An indirect line called Dyer Straits was originally climbed by Ian Vickers that used a lot of pegs (although the pegs were not placed by Vickers) [2]. James Pearson then removed the pegs and added a direct start suggesting the lofty grade of E12. The route was quickly repeated by Dave Macleod (who was injured at the time) who suggested a downgrade to E9.

The harsh criticism which was levelled at James from the climbing community for over grading the route led to him moving to Innsbruck to get away from the UK climbing scene.

James has subsequently discussed how, having grown up bouldering and leading short, bold routes on the gritstone, The Walk of Life was well outside his comfort zone and, lacking the skills to recognise his own weaknesses, then led him to suggest such a lofty grade. [1]

References

[1] https://open.spotify.com/episode/2HAuDaq2kSHM6L7vdDu6uu?

[2] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/james-pearson-interview-after-the-walk-of-life.html

The Wheel of Life Boulder problem 8B+ 12

References

[1] https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/07/australian_access_issues_-_breaking_up_is_hard_to_do-72012

Voie Petit Sport route 8b 12

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