Trad climbs

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C9nrL6ZN_g8/

Livesey's original line was slightly indirect, moving right and then back left at the top of the route at about E6. This was then (unintentionally!) straightened out by Andy Pollitt on his second ascent [1], [2].

References

[1] Ogwen (Climber's Club Guides) (2010) by Mike Bailey, page 250

[2] Ogwen (Climber's Club Guides) (2010) by Mike Bailey, page 412

Archangel is the quintessential gritstone arête: bold, insecure and utterly compelling.

Don Whillans top-roped the line in 1954, pinching the arête face-on and gripping it between his knees, which had rubber inner-tubes attached to them. In 1971 Ed Drummond made the first ascent, laybacking it on the left side. In 1985 he climbed it on the right side, naming it Don (E4).

Peak Rock:

Again and again, Ed Drummond found relatively reasonable solutions simply by experimenting. Even in 1972, Archangel wasn't as hard as many other gritstone routes. It was the concept of a blank unprotected arête and the sustained, technical laybacking required to subjugate it which had stopped earlier efforts. [1]

Niall Grimes:

Matthew, in chapter 14, tells the story of the disciples seeing Jesus walk on the lake:

28 Peter called to Him 'Lord, if it is you, tell me to come to you over the water'. 'Come' said Jesus.
29 Peter stepped down from the boat and walked over the water towards Jesus.
30 But when he saw the strength of the gale he was seized with fear; and beginning to sink, he cried 'Save me, Lord.'
31 Jesus at once reached out and caught hold of him, and said, 'Why did you hesitate? How little faith you have!'

This bible story serves well as an illustration of what you need to climb Archangel. It will confound the Book of Numbers. A man may well boulder 6c and redpoint 7c, but without faith he is no more likely to succeed than the man who has bouldered 5c, for without faith, even a rich man is more likely to get into the Kingdom of God than to climb Archangel. And you must have faith, not in the hand of god, but in thyself. [2]

Adam Long:

No holds on Archangel? What are you talking about? It’s the biggest hold on the crag! [3]

References

[1] Peak Rock, Vertebrate Publishing, 2013

[2] On The Edge Issue 67, page 43

[3] https://ukbouldering.com/threads/any-shorties-done-stall.6000/#post-84556

Bolted in the 1990s by Bob Horan, China Doll received its first gear-only ascent (including an extension) when Mike Patz free climbed the route, without clipping the bolts, on July 5, 2007. The route received a second gear-only ascent by Matt Segal on April 23, 2008.

References

[1] [https://alpinist.com/newswire/china-doll-5-14a-r-trad-heather-weidner-interview/](https://alpinist.com/newswire/china-doll-5-14a-r-trad-heather-weidner-interview/)

Formerly a two pitch aid route called Acromaniac before Dean Potter linked the two pitches to produce the current free version.

Probably the hardest crack climb in Japan.

V 5.10b, although opinions on the technical grade vary.

References

[1] https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105874557/direct-north-buttress-dnb