Dean Potter

Also known as: The Dark Wizard

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 14th April 1972
Age: 43 years old
Date of death: 16th May 2015
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

References

[1] Portrait by Dean Fidelman https://www.instagram.com/p/CpN7MQAJom7/

[2] Free Soloing with a Parachute, from Reel Rock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DWu4HygkBU

Contributors
7 contributions since 25th May 2021.

Quick Info

From: USA 🇺🇸
Date of birth: 14th April 1972
Date of death: 16th May 2015
Age: 43 years old
Hardest Boulder (Worked): 8A
Hardest Trad (Worked): E8

References

[1] Portrait by Dean Fidelman https://www.instagram.com/p/CpN7MQAJom7/

[2] Free Soloing with a Parachute, from Reel Rock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DWu4HygkBU

Contributors
7 contributions since 25th May 2021.

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Ascents

5 recorded ascents.

This timeline is missing some ascents where the date of the ascent is unknown. Use the other tabs to view these ascents.
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Sasquatch 8A Boulder | worked
First ascent.
King Air 7C+ Boulder | worked
First ascent.

The Le Conte boulder, also known as the House Keeping boulder, is in Yosemite Valley, California. For more than a decade, I'd been trying to figure out the proudest, tallest line on the block, with no luck.

One day, I was playing with my sister Jenny's kids, Cyrus and Dahlia, in the forest amongst the rocks. They were acting all whacky, wild and uninhibited, jumping and bouncing around from rock to rock and scampering up trees. I had been trying this sick line on the boulder but never figured out the crux move in all the years before. Somehow the kids, 'anything is possible' energy drifted into me. I stood before the starting bucket giggling. I was loose and moved my body in a different way than ever before. To my amazement, I stuck the crux with my nine-year-old nephew and my 7-year-old niece spotting me. I jumped down, careful not to squish them and finally believed I would send this lifetime project within my next few efforts.

King Air is one of the most obvious boulder problems around. For years I tried the problem alone, somehow keeping it completely secret. My bro, Ivo Ninov and I worked on it together. We kept our efforts stealth by washing off the chalk with water before leaving for the night. For years, I doubt anyone else ever seriously looked at the bold line as it was too high and there wasn't any chalk to lead them. Ivos enthusiasm literally lifted me higher and higher. On every serious attempt he spotted me, making sure that at least I wouldn't split my melon.

This is the proudest highball boulder problem I know of in the Valley. The business scales over 30 feet to the final bucket. Its on the verge of being a free solo. When I fell my feet traveled 20 feet before impacting the pads. I was lucky not to shatter bones. My quads were very sore and I limped around for the next few days. King Air is the most beautiful boulder problem Ive ever done. You would be hard pressed to find any line, more aesthetic. [1]

References

[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4rgMyThtWI

Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade
Concepción E8 Lead | worked 2003
First ascent.

References

[1] https://www.instagram.com/p/C0zJe0QOHpn/

Heaven E6 Solo | worked 2005
Separate Reality E5 Solo | worked 2006
Climb Grade Style Ascent Date Suggested Grade