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Named for a dislike of RockFax.

Trolldalen, Norway

References

[1] https://vimeo.com/292355899?fl=pl&fe=cm

A long standing project that saw a lot of attention before finally succumbing to Simon Lorenzi after 25 days of work.

It's an 'old' project which has been tried long before The Island was opened in 2008. The roof, called "Toit du Nid d'Aigle" by foresters, had been identified as a futuristic project by climbers in 1973 and its sitstart had been tried since the late 1990s. [1]

The name comes from the title of a book that first ascentionist Simon Lorenzi borrowed from his girlfriend to place under his kneepad. [2]

References

[1] https://bleau.info/coquibus/306875.html

[2] Autissier, Isabelle. Soudain, seuls. France: Stock, 2015.

An estimated 5.13b including a hard-to-grade horizontal dyno for his free ascent.

Brooke Sandahl:

Eight days later, our free bid would end a mere sixty feet from the summit anchor. Having run out of water that morning, in blistering heat, we inched higher till we hit the final aid section. Sadly, we had to aid through it. Our bid for an all-free ascent, coming from the ground, in a push, would end here. A few days later, we returned via the Tuolumne high country and were able to put together an amazing final pitch (12a), thus making the wall’s first free ascent (albeit discontinuous).

References

[1] https://climbingzine.com/old-school-south-face-mount-watkins-brooke-sandahl/