Climbs / Index

Trad climbs

Ordered by the number of ascents recorded.

All Boulder problems 3,307 Trad climbs 2,600 Sport routes 2,183 Deep water solos 104 Aid Climbs 61 Boulder problems (indoor) 29 Alpine 24 Traverses 19 High Mountain 18
Climb Name Type Grade # Ascents Recorded Notes Exclude Reason
Tempi Moderni Trad climb E5 4
Tender Homecoming Trad climb E8 4
Thai Boxing Trad climb E7 4
The Boldest Trad climb E4 4
The Brothers Karamazov Trad climb E8 4
The Crack of Destiny Trad climb E9 4
The Dawn Wall Trad climb E12 4

The Dawn Wall, arguably the hardest big wall in the world, was the product of seven years' work by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. Both climbers led every pitch in a single continuous push over 19 days. The ascent became an international news story, with their tribulations covered by John Branch in the New York Times [2]. Upon topping out, the pair received a message of congratulations from President Barack Obama.

The route free climbs parts of the aid routes Mescalito (A3), New Dawn (A2+), and Adrift, linked by hard-won independent climbing.

Nicholas Hobley:

What immediately set this route apart from the other 100 or so on the Big Stone was its sheer technical difficulties coupled with the relentless intensity of the different climbing styles: hard face climbing up razor-sharp holds, tremendous cracks, thin corners, huge offwidths… the vast majority of the climbing is harder than 5.13, and the three crux pitches are estimated at, respectively, 5.14 (9a), 5.14d and 5.14d if climbed via the Dyno Pitch variation as Jorgeson did, or 5.14a (8b+) if climbed via the Loop Pitch as per Caldwell. [4]

The story of the first ascent was recounted in the 2017 film The Dawn Wall. [1]

In 2016, Adam Ondra made an astonishingly fast second ascent. With no big wall experience prior to his trip, he projected and climbed the route in just eight days.

References

[1] dawnwall-film.com archive link: https://web.archive.org/web/20231209023640/https://www.dawnwall-film.com/

[2] https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2015/01/09/sports/the-dawn-wall-el-capitan.html

[3] https://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/05/sports/on-el-capitans-dawn-wall-two-climbers-make-slow-progress-toward-a-dream.html

[4] https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-free-climb-the-dawn-wall-on-el-capitan.html

[5] https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213305/the-dawn-wall

The Ego Has Landed Trad climb E8 4

Adam Hocking:

You're going to die all the way.

The Great Arch Trad climb E8 4
The Great Wall of China Trad climb E3 4

One of the longest continuous rock climbs at ~9000ft long. Graded 5.9 R by the first ascentionists, the more recent repeaters suggest it has some sections of 5.10+ R.

References

[1] https://www.climbing.com/travel/gunks-traverse-repeated/

The Groove Trad climb E9 4
The Hallucinogen Wall Trad climb E9 4

Originally an 5.10 A5 mixed free and aid climb.

The Naked Ape Trad climb E6 4
The Pura Pura Trad climb E10 4

This links a pumpy boulder problem traverse into Greenspit for a long, tiring excursion.

The Recovery Drink Trad climb E10 4
The Skull Trad climb E4 4
Time Regained Trad climb E8 4
Toltec Twostep Trad climb E6 4
Tombola Trad climb E7 4

Nesscliffe Guidebook 2007:

Originally climbed with virtually none of the sophisticated protection used on recent ascents […] The name is of some interest: in the previous West Midland Guides it was called Unnamed. It was however known locally as The Unnamed Comer. In 2006 the climb with no name became known as Tombola named after Crispin's son and daughter.

Totally Wired 9 Trad climb E8 4

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